HISTORICAL HELICS 



OF THE 



iHl'J II 



A CONCISE AYHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 



JOHN H. SPAULDING. 




MT. WASHINGTON: 
PUBLISHED BY J, K. HITCHCOCK. 



• 3 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866, hj 

J. H. SPAULDING, 

I« the Clerk'8 Office of the District Court of the Diatrict of Massachusettt. 



T 



% 



WTSRSIDE, CAMBRIDGE: PKI>..„, bv u 0. HOU.HXON 



INTRODUCTION. 



There may be no locality combining more general interest 
for the pleasure-seeking tourist than the White Mountains. 
Here every season thousands come from different climes, on a 
pilgrimage, that they may pay most worshipful tribute in 
epirit-felt wonder, and songs of praise. My apology for 
attempting to originate and compile the following pages, is 
the belief that the curiosity of the travelling public requires 
a work embodying my design. The pencil of " Oakes " and 
the pen of "Beckett'' have nicely defined every explored 
locality, interestingly connected with the particular geography 
of these mountains ; besides which, the number of those 
may be called " legion " who have made fancied famous 
record for the world of their White Mountain impressions. 
These mountains are a fadeless pictured page in Nature's 
wonderful book, — or a gigantic monument of ruins formed 
by an overwhelming change, that widely disfigured the origi- 
nal geological formation of this wild region ; and as a massive 
rock-shadow in a strange land, is to a journey-sick pilgrim 
with a gushing cold-water spring by his feet, so my impres- 
eions of these famous ' ' old peaks ' ' now rise to my sight. 
An ambitious presence in fancy is with me now, with a voice 
saying, like a prophetic whisper from " Gheistland^''^ " Res- 
cue from the twilight of forgetfulness the Historical Relics 
1* 



TI INTRODUCTION. 

OF THE White Mountains ! " The curious data of olden timca 
— the antiquities of this anciently named Agiochook, with 
the statistical facts of modern origin, necessary for a concise 
history of " these bald old heads of nature " — have never been 
tangibly combined. The trials and daring exploits of the 
fearless adventurers, who in other days filled the historic 
blank of this renowned locality, are rich with rarities for a 
work of interest to the reading world. Their life-relics have 
twined around them, by traditionary remembrance, pleasant 
associations of undecayable interest. We may for future 
visions gaze back from the cloud-capped crags into the valley 
of the past, and rescue from the oblivious mist of years the 
oral monuments, that, tinctured by the life-passion of times 
long gone, linger like visions of light upon the map of 
memory. 

Vanity is not the power that prompts me to desire success 
in this tiisk ; but as storm and time cover the names chiselled 
upon the top crag of Mount Washington with moss, so, 
with a round of years, " Old Mortality " should come, to 
brighten up the vestiges of the past, and catalogue new 
events with the re-chiselled. 

The antiquarian collections of interesting facts, found in the 
library of the Massachusetts Historical Society, having been 
open to my inquiry, my humble tribute of respect is due that 
society for the arrangement by which my research has been 
favored; and their assistiint librarian, John Appleton, M.D., 
is, for his politeness to me as a stranger, deserving my last- 
ing gratitude. The kindness of J. M. Rix, Esq., of Lancas- 
ter, in giving me free access to his library of choice books, is 
happily remembered. N. Noyes, Esq., of Boston, and B. F. 
Whidden, Esq., of Lancaster, have my sincere thanks for 
assisting me in obtaining the facts here registered, from the 
most authentic records. J. H. S. 

Lancaster^ June, 1855. 



PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION. 



In offering the third edition of the Historical 
Relics of the White Mountains, I have made 
an effort to meet in a satisfactory manner the ques- 
tions of tiie thousands who come here to while away 
a time in this favorite resort. I feel under a debt 
of gratitude to Professors Clark and Tuckerman, of 
Amherst College, for their politeness in furnishing me 
a complete list of all the plants natural to the Al- 
pine regions of the White Mountains. I confidently 
believe now this book contains more reliable informa- 
tion than any other book yet published in regard to 
the White Mountains ; and, in its present enlarged 
form, I trust its merits will be duly appreciated, and 
may it meet a generous reception from those who visit 
this justly popular place of resort ! 

THE AUTHOR. 
Mount Washington, August 13, 1858. 



TABLE or CONTENTS, 



PAOB 

Legendary Origin of White Mountains, 1 

First Visit, in the Year 1631, r- 2 

Origin of Name " Crystal Hills," 3 

Darby Field's Visit, 1642, * 

Indian Veneration for Agiochook, * 

Geographical Situation, 8 

Geological Features, 8 

Minerals, 9 

Scientific Measurements of the Mountainf, 12 

Height of the White Mountains, 14 

Perpetual Congelation, 14 

Snow Arch and Bank, 1& 

Dining under Forty Feet of Snow, 15 

Alpine Flowers, 'IS 

The Veteran Pilot, 18 

First White-Mountain Guide, 18 

First Hotel, 17 

Indian Prophecy on " Giant's Grave," 17 

The " White-Mountain Giant," 18 

Place of his Birth, 18 

Record of his Strength, 20 

Carrying the Kettle and Deer, 20 

Halter-Breaking the Mountam Buck, 20 

The Giant lugging the Old Bear, • 20 

Furst White-Mountain Bear-Show, 21 

Catching the Wildcat with a Withe, 21 

The Two Close Shots, 22 

Ethan's Pond, 23 

The Giant carrying a Lady, 23 

The Men who named the Mountain, 23 

First Night spent on Mount Washington, 24 

Blue Pond and the Giant's Load, 24 

First Mount-Washington Bridie-Path, 24 

Location of that Old Path, 25 

Ethan's Stone Cabin, 26 

The OH Iron Chest and Boll of Lead, ^ 25 

First Ladies on Mount Washington, > ... 25 

First Horseback Bide, 20 

White-Mountain Guides, S? 

traditioa of Silver and Gold, ••••.. «28 



X CONTENTS. 

PlOB 

Tradition of Carbuncles, «...,.... 30 

Carbuncle Hunters, 31 

The Red Man's Curse, 31 

The Indian Ghost, 31 

Lost Spirits' Looking-Glass, 31 

Rogers and his Rangers, 32 

Silver Image, Wampum, and Money, 33 

Rangers' Relics found, 36 

Strange Sights seen, 38 

The Old Fortune-Teller, 41 

Search for Silver Image, etc., 42 

The Old Brass Plate, 48 

Discovery of the Notch, 49 

The Hunters Nash and Sawyer, 49 

Description of Notch, 49 

Silver Cascade, 60 

The Flume, 60 

First Settler through the Notch, 51 

The First Female, 51 

" Granny Stalbird's " Rock, 62 

Story of " Nancy's Rock and Brook," 62 

First Goods brought up the Notch, 64 

First Produ«e carried down, 66 

First House in the Notch, 66 

Avalanche of the Mountain, 66 

Origin of Indian Fire-Worship, 67 

Destruction of the Willey Family, 68 

Names of the Family, • ... 69 

Wonderful Escapes, . 69 

Destruction of " Ethan's Cabin," . , 60 

Origin of Peabody River, 60 

Darby Field's Second Visit, ,61 

Death of the English Baronet, 62 

Death-Leap of the Moose and Dog, 64 

Indian Exile Pealsucep, 64 

Silver-Mine found, 68 

White-Mountain Hermit, 68 

The Stolen White Girl, 69 

White-Mountain Hotels, 71 

Dwelling-Place in the Clouds, 72 

Nazro's Temple Vision, , , 72 

Summit House, Mount Washington, 74 

Tip-Top House, Mount Washington, , 74 

Mount- Washington Carriage-Road, 76 



CONTENTS. XI 

PAGS 

White-Mountain Objects of Interest, 78 

The Crystal Cascade, '° 

The Hermit's Lake, '^ 

Fall of a Thousand Streams, °^ 

Tuckerman's Ravine, ^^ 

Glen Elise Falls, °; 

Lake of the Clouds and Star Lake, ^| 

" Gulf of Mexico," °^ 

Bones in the '* Burnt District," °^ 

The " Devil's Den," °^ 

Bearing and Distances of White Mountains, ... • • • ' • ^'^ 

Height, Bearing, and Distances of other Mountains from Mt. Wash- ^^ 

ington, jjc 

Franconia and its Attractions °^ 

The " Old Man of the Mountain," »o 

The Pool, °; 

The Flume, °' 

The Basin, gi 

The Cascade •, I' 

Mount Lafayette, or the " Great Haystack," ^l 

Eagle Mountain, ^ • *,,* ' ^ V-' / «a 

Length of Davs at the Summit of Mount Washington, . . . . oo 

Thunder-Storins, °J 

White Mountain Names, from old Records, o» 

^^^_^^^^^^^ _ ^ _ !!!!!! 93 

AtpinePlants of the White Mountains, . ' 9^ 

Remarkable Feats in White Mountain Life, ^' 

Height of the different Hotels above the Sea, »» 

Freight of Building Materials, &c., to Tip-Top, «« 

Lizzie Bourne's Death, ^ 

Adventure of Dr. Ball, \^^ 

Fate of Benjamin Chandler, ■["* 

Routes and Distances to the Mountains, ... . • • iw 



Mount Washington Observatory 
Railroad to the top of Mount Washington, 



HISTORICAL RELICS 

OP 

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 



LEGENDARY ORIGIN OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

Cold storms were in the northern wilderness, and a 
lone red hunter wandered without food, chilled by the 
frozen wind. He lost his strength, and could find no 
game; and the dark cloud that covered his life-path 
made him weary of wandering. He fell down upon the 
snow, and a dream carried him to a wide, happy valley, 
filled with musical streams, where singing birds and game 
were plenty. His spirit cried aloud for joy; and the 
" Great Master of Life " waked him from his sleep, gave 
him a dry coal and a flint-pointed spear, telling him that 
by the shore of the lake he might live, and find fish with 
his spear, and fire from his dry coal. One night, when 
he had laid down his coal, and seen a warm fire spring up 
therefrom, with a blinding smoke, a loud voice came out 
of the flame, and a great noise, like thunder, filled the 



2 HISTOEICAL RELICS OF 

air ; and there rose up a vast pile of broken rocks. Out 
of the cloud resting upon the top came numerous streams, 
dancing down, foaming cold ; and the voice spake to the 
astonished red hunter, saying, *' Here the Great Spirit 
will dwells and watch over his favorite chUdren,^^ — Old 
Legend. 

FIRST VISIT, IN 1631. 

Dr. Belknap, the learned historian of New Hampshire, 
gives Walter Neal the credit of being the first explorer of 
these mountains, as early as the year 1632. Merrill's N. 
H. Gazetteer of 1817 concludes, from the best authorities, 
that Robert Neal, Walter Neal and others, visited these 
mountains as early as the year 1631. Josselyn, in his 
^QW England Rarities, gives the following description, 
which, with little variation, is found also in Belknap, as 
an extract from Hubbard's MS. History, credited to 
Walter Neal : 

" Four score miles (upon a direct line) to the N. W. of 
Scarboro' a ridge of mountains runs N. W. and N. E. an 
hundred leagues, known by the name of White Hills, upon 
which lieth snow all the year, and is a landmark twenty 
miles ofif at sea. It is a rising ground from the sea-shore 
to these hills, and they are inaccessible but by the gulleys 
which the dissolved snow hath made. In these gulleys 
grow savin bushes, which, being taken hold of, are a good 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. • 

help to the climbing discoverer. Upon the top of the 
highest of these mountains is a large level, or plain, of a 
day's journey over, whereon nothing grows but moss. At 
the further end of this plain is another hill, called the 
^Sugarloaf,'' to outward appearance a rude heap of mass- 
ive stones, piled one upon another ; and you may, as you 
ascend, step from one stone to another, as if you were 
going up a pair of stairs, but winding still about the hill, 
till you come to the top, which will require half a day's 
time, and yet it is not above a mile, where there is also 
a level of about an acre of ground, with a pond of clear 
water in the midst of it, which you may hear run down; 
but how it ascends is a mystery. From this rocky hill 
you may see the whole country around about. It is far 
above the lower clouds, and from hence we beheld vapor 
(like a great pillar) drawn up by the sunbeams out of a 
great lake, or pond, into the air, where it was formed into 
a cloud. The country beyond these hills, northward, is 
daunting terrible, being full of rocky hills, as thick as 
mole-hills in a meadow, and clothed with infinite thick 
woods."* — N. E. Rarities, 3-4. 

* Another writer, after giving a similar description, adds, "We 
had great expectation of finding precious stones on these moun- 
tains ;" and something resembling crystals being picked up, waa 
Buflficient to give them the name of " Crystal Hills." They wert 
long called by that name. — Authob. 

2 



« HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

DARBY FIELD'S VISIT, IN 1642. 

Juru 4th, 1642. — " Darby Field " (says Winthrop, in 
his Journal), "an Irishman, living about Piscat, being 
accompanied with two Indians, went to the top of the 
White Hill. He made his journey in eighteen days. His 
relation, at his return, was, that it was about 160 miles 
from Saco ; that after 40 miles travel he did, for the most 
part, ascend ; and within 12 miles of the top was neither 
tree nor grass, but low savins, which they went upon the 
top of, sometimes ; but a continual ascent upon rocks, on a 
ridge, between two valleys, filled with snow, out of which 
came two branches of the Saco river, which met at the 
foot of the hill, where was an Indian town, of some 200 
people. Some of them accompanied him within 8 miles 
of the top, but durst go no further, telling him that no 
Indian ever dared to go higher, and that he would die if 
he went. So they staid there till his return, and his two 
Indians took courage by his example, and went with him. 
They went divers times through thick clouds, for a good 
space J and within 4 miles of the top they had no clouds, 
but very cold. By the way among the rocks there was 
two ponds : one a blackish water, and the other reddish. 
The top of all was plain, about 60 ft. square. On the 
north side was such a precipice as they could scarcely dis- 
cern the bottom. They had neither cloud nor wind on 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. d 

the top, and moderate heat. All the country about him 
seemed a level, except here and there a hill rising above 
the rest, and far beneath them. He saw, to the north, a 
great water, which he judged to be 100 miles broad, but 
could see no land beyond it. The sea by Saco seemed as 
if it had been within 20 miles. He saw, also, a sea to 
the eastward, which he judged to be the gulf of Canada. 
He saw some great waters in parts to the westward, which 
he judged to be the great lake Canada river (St. Lawrence) 
came out of. He found there much Muscovy glass ; they 
could rive out pieces 40 ft. long, and 7 or S broad. 
When he came back to the Indians, he found them drying 
themselves by the fire ; for they had a great tempest of 
wind and rain. About a month after, he went again, 
with five or six of his company. Then they had some 
wind on the top, and some clouds above them, which hid 
the sun. They brought some stones, which they supposed 
had been diamonds; but they were most crystal."* — 
Winthrop's Journal, p. 247. 

INDIAN VENERATION FOR AGIOCHOOK. 

According to antiquarian research, the aboriginal name 
of the White Mountains was "Agiochook;" spelt, also, Agio- 

• We may reasonably conclude that Darby Field's trail was up 
the ridge between Tuckerman's Ravine and the valley of Dry 
Eiver. — Authob. 



6 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

cochook, Agicoochooke, Agriochooke; signifying, by ancient 
Indian nomenclature, " Mountain of the Snowy Forehead^ 
mid Home of the Great Spirit:' Schoolcraft, in his " Indian 
Wigwam," page 248, gives, as the Algonquin pronuncia- 
tion of these mountains, " Waubik," or " Waumbick ;" 
mQ2,nmg ''White Rocky Becket, in his "Guide," calls 
them, from ancient authority, " Waumbeket Methna," sig- 
nifying mountains of the " S?iowy Foreheads.'^ The lore 
of legend, the voice of tradition, and the record of history, 
point to these mountains as a locality of great interest. 
In olden times, from far and near have come the brave 
and fair red children of the wilderness, to offer, in wild, 
shadowy glens, their sacrifices of vengeance and love ; and 
where their songs rose, with the echoes of thundering 
waterfalls, to mingle with the roaring wind of the tempest 
cloud, upon the snow-crowned rock, there they rever- 
ently believed the Great Spirit listened with satisfaction 
to their tributes of esteem. When the first white man 
came here, to climb to the top of this bald mountain, an 
old Indian, with his tomahawk of stone, flint-pointed ar- 
row, and tanned war-dress, from the skins of moose and 
bear, standing proudly erect, shook his head, and said, 
" The Great Spirit dwells there ; he covers steps above the 
green leaves with the darkness of the fire tempest. No 
foot-marks are seen returning from his home in the clouds." 
The explorer's thirst for daring adventure overruled the 



THE WHITE MCHTNTAINS. 7 

fear created by the Indians' superstition ; and, after learn- 
ing that the Great Spirit sent a high wind, in a thick 
mist, and caught up to the top of Agiochook a single sanop 
and his squaw, that the wilderness and all the mountains 
except this, might be covered for two suns with water, and 
that they might then return as the only mortals who should 
ever come down the " "White Rock " from his dwelling 
place, he went to the top, and safely returned. All old 
authentic records agree, that the aborigines unitedly had 
a peculiar superstitious veneration for these mountains. 
They considered them the dwelling-place of the invisible 
One, who, with a motion of his hand, could raise a storm ; 
and accordingly they deemed it pardonless sacrilege to 
ascend them. Traditions teach us that a few have been 
found so daring (in the long history of the Indians) as to 
press, with their moccasined feet the moss that grows 
above the region of scrub vegetation ; and such have been 
doomed to wander forever invisibly among wild gorges, 
with no resting-place save the damp, cold caverns in the 
rocks, and no hope of ever reaching the ^^ happy land,'" 
beyond the setting sun. To this day, those are to be 
found who credulously believe that the strange noises often 
heard among the shadowy cliffs (instead of giving credit to 
wolves and wild-cats) proceed from lost spirits, that miser- 
ably exist here in hopeless torment, perpetually bewailing 
their fate. 

2* 



?) HISTORICAL EELICS OF 

GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION OF WHITE MOUNTAINS^ 

These mountains are situated in the State of New 
Hampshire, and County of Coos. Their latitude is 44® 
16' 34|'' north, and longitude 71° 20' west. Since their 
discovery by the early voyagers along the wild coast of 
New England, they have ever been regarded with won- 
der and admiration. Deep, shadowy gorges, where the 
everlasting waterfall lives among massy crags, with its 
endless thunder-song; the yawning chasms, filled with 
snow, and romantic, flowery glens, shaded by a gnarled 
growth of old forest-trees, combined with an area of fifty 
thousand three hundred and forty-one acres of shattered 
rocks, piled high up to the clouds, in the wildest disorder 
imaginable, form the remarkable outline of this famous 
locality. No wonder that the rude, nature-tanned son of 
the wilderness, as he gazed upon this gigantic pile of rocks, 
standing up from its original bed six thousand two hundred 
and eighty-five feet into the clouds, was filled with super- 
stitious veneration ; for here, in all coming time, the en- 
lightened sons of science may pay willing homage, where 
the Great Spirit dwelt in storms, and gave the thunder 
his voice, and the lightning the flash of his anger ! 

GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. 
According to the report of the geological surveyor of 
the State of New Hampshire, Dr. C. T. Jackson, the feat- 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 9 

upes of these mountains, geologically considered, possess 
little peculiar interest. The rocks in places consist of a 
coarse variety of mica slate, passing into gneiss, and con- 
taining a few crystals of black tourmaline, and quartz. 
The cone of Mount Washington and its summit are covered 
with myriads of angular and flat blocks, and slabs of mica 
Blate, piled in confusion one upon another. These are 
identical iu nature with the rocks in place, and leave no 
marks of transportation or abrasion by the action of water. 
The nucleus of these mountains is granite rock, and the 
mica slate found on the top of the difierent peaks is but a 
superficial crust ; and it is observable that the sedimentary 
deposit, and gi'anite, has been disturbed by upheavals, 
which, with the action of a comparatively moderate heat 
for ages has doubled back and twisted and broken these 
large sheets of mica slate, and left the fragments exposed 
in the wildest confusion, for mortal wonder. 

MINERALS. 

Various local traditions are in existence to prove the 
adventurous belief of many, that yet, in some unexplored 
or enchantment-guarded places, are mines of wealth of 
immense value. These tend to tantalize the imagination 
of many; with how much probability for future real- 
ization is not my province to decide. In this book will 
be found certain of these traditions, which, in their proper 



10 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

places are deemed worthy of record, for the gratification 
of public curiosity. 

The minerals yet obtained among these mountains are 
not satisfactory to the spirit of discovery. Southerly 
from the top of Mount Washington is found a vein of 
quartz, containing crystals of fluor-spar of an apple-green 
color, and crystallized in its primary form. This attracts 
the attention of collectors of minerals, and is worthy of 
notice as a curiosity. A few quartz crystals, in the form 
of six-sided prisms, also occur at the same place. Near 
the location of these crystals has been found, lately, a 
new bed of black tourmaline, which has furnished some 
finely-shaped crystals. These specimens are found in large 
masses of milk-quartz, near the route to the summit of the 
mountain, from the old Crawford or Davis path. On a 
branch of Dry river, have been found some remarkably 
large and transparent specimens of quartz crystallization, 
and much search has been made there for a bed of dia- 
monds that are of a rare quality. An old hunter (San- 
born) is now living, who faithfully affirms that, many 
years ago, while fishing, up a small branch of Dry river, 
under the eastern side of Mount Pleasant, he came to a 
place where the water ran between two high white rocks 
so covered with perfect diamonds that it was blinding to 
his eyes to look upon the same. He succeeded in break- 
ing off three with his fish-pole, which he sold for five dol- 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 11 

lare each, at Old Abel Crawford's. Several exploring 
parties have been in search of this treasure ; and as lately 
as 1853 the same old gray-headed hunter who made the 
discovery, went with two other treasure-seekers, arme<i 
with drills and powder, &c., and made thorough search, 
for several days, among all the small northern branches 
of this river. Not far from the top of Mount Wash- 
ington, in every direction from that point, are found 
veins of white and rose-colored* quartz, with here and 
there fine crystals of quartz ; and on Mount Franklin have 
been found many fine specimens of crystallization. In or 
near the gateway of the Notch are found rare amethystine 
crystals, specimens of which will readily sell to mineralo- 
gists for five dollars each. Tin is found in veins on some 
of the southern spurs of these mountains ; in the valley 
of Dry River, are streams so impregnated with iron that 
the bushes and trees along their shores are loaded with red 
rust ; and in such places not a fish, or thing of animal life, 
can be found. Particles of lead, with specks of silver, 
are found on a branch of Peabody river ; but so far noth- 
ing of that kind has been found sufficient for important 
notice. As yet, there are many deep glens and wild crags 
in all this mighty pile of mountains, where the explorer 
has never left the print of his feet upon the moss. With- 
out doubt more minerals will be found before these moun- 
taius are perfectly well known. 



12 HISTORICAL RELICS OP 

SCIENTIFIC MEASUREMENTS OF THE MOUNTAINS. 

Rev. D. Cutler twice visited the Crystal Hills, in the 
beginning of the eighteenth century, and took barometrical 
observations, by which he calculates the highest peak to be 
ten thousand feet above the sea. 

Dr. Belknap, in his famous New Hampshire History, is 
persuaded by his observations, that the computation of ten 
thousand feet as the height of the Crystal Hills is too 
moderate, and he concludes that subsequent calculations 
will make them much higher. Mr. Bowditch published, in 
the transactions of the American Academy, a logarithmic 
calculation, founded on Professor Peck's barometrical ob- 
servations, giving the Crystal Hills an elevation of seven 
thousand and fifty-five feet. Capt. Partridge, United 
States engineer, visited these mountains in 1804, and 
took barometrical observations on several of the principal 
peaks. His calculations give to the highest summit an 
elevation of six thousand one hundred and three feet. 

July 2d, 1816, a mountain barometer of Engl efi eld's 
construction stood, on the highest peak, at noon, 24.23, 
the accompanying thermometer being at 57. Same day, 
at Cambridge, Mass., similar observations were taken; and 
a logarithmic calculation, made by Professor Farrar, from 
the data thus obtained, resulted in establishing six thou- 
iand two hundred and twenty-five feet above the waters 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 13 

of the ocean as the height of Mount Washington. A geo- 
metrical admeasurement taken by Professor Shuttuck, on 
the north-west side of the mountain, on the plain near the 
present ruins of the Fabyan Stand, gave to the summit an 
elevation of six thousand two hundred and sixty-eight feet 
above the level of the sea. William Maclue, author of 
the "United States Geological Map," made geometrical 
admeasurements on both sides of the mountain ; and his 
conclusions fixed the height at six thousand two hundred 
and sixty-six feet. In 1840, C. T. Jackson, geological 
surveyor of New Hampshire, by means of barometrical 
and thermometrical observations, made for a period of 
twelve hours, at a time when the weather was remarkably 
favorable, and the atmospheric pressure was stationary 
throughout the state, as shown by other observations made 
at the same time, ascertained the height of Mount Wash- 
ington to be six thousand two hundred and twenty-six feet 
above high-water mark at Portsmouth. According to the 
Cincinnati Times of Dec. 1st, 1853, the United States 
coast surveyors, in Aug., 1853, made, by calculation, the 
summit of Mount Washington six thousand seven hundred 
and forty-three feet above the sea. William A. Goodwin, 
Esq., one of the engineers of the Atlantic and St. Lawrence 
rail road, by a survey made by levelling from the ocean to 
the top of Mount Washington, makes the height of that 
peak six thousand two hundred and eighty-five feet. Pro- 



14 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

fessor Guyot, of Cambridge, Mass., by barometrical ob- 
servations taken at the same time, nearly agrees with 
Mr. Goodwin's survey. This is, doubtless, the actual 
height of Mount Washington. In 1854, Messrs. Kicker 
and Cavis, chief engineers of the White Mountain car- 
riage-road, by actual survey, made the height six thousand 
two hundred and eighty-four feet. 

HEIGHT OF WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



Mt 


. Washington 


, 6,285 ft. 


Mt 


Monroe, 


5,349 ft 


(( 


Adams, 


5,790 « 


(( 


Franklin, 


4,850 " 


•( 


Jefferson, 


5,710 " 


u 


Pleasant, 


4,715 " 


(( 


Madison, 


5,361 « 


t( 


Clinton, 


4,200 « 


•1 


Clay, 


5,011 « 









PERPETUAL CONGELATION. 
Many suppose that in the darkest and most shadowy 
gorges of these mountains snow and ice may be found 
at any season of the year. This is a mistaken opinion ; 
for it can be satisfactorily proved, by those who know, 
that the latest appearance of old snow, for several years 
past, has been in Tuckerman's Ravine, as late as Aug. 
20th. This ravine, by observation, is found to retain its 
winter burden the longest ; and being, as it is, fairly ex- 
posed to the sun, this, unexplained, appears remarkable. 
The northern winds of our extremely cold winters pile 
there, from the surrounding summits, a good share of the 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 15 

Bnow that falls on them ; and there is but little doubt that 
in our most severe seasons for wintry storms, the snow- 
drift in this wild gorge is a hundred feet deep. Much has 
been written and said about the endless snow-arch and per- 
petual snow-bank of Tuckerman's Ravine, by those, even, 
who, with the light of science around them, should be 
aware that in the latitude of these mountains the line of 
perpetual congelation is, by scientific observation, found 
to be at an elevation of seven thousand eight hundred and 
seventy-two feet above the sea level. To strengthen the 
conclusion that the snow may here be seen in piles a hun- 
dred feet deep, the following true account may here be 
noticed : 

DINING UNDER FORTY FEET OF SNOW. 

The water that runs from Tuckerman's Ravine passes 
under the great snow-bank, and, with the warmth of sum- 
mer, wears a curious channel. July 16th, 1854, D. 0. 
Macomber, president of the Mount Washington carriage- 
road, and Engineer C. H. V. Cavis, of that road, with the 
author of these pages, dined in that snow arch. It was 
then two hundred and sixty-six feet long, eighty-four 
feet wide, and forty feet high, by measurement, to the 
snow roof, from which constantly dripped down cold ice- 
water around us. A heavy thunder-shower, while there, 
passed over us, and after the shower we found any 
3 



46 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

quantity of little hardy alpine flowers, fresh and fair 
watered by the water from the great bank. 

THE VETERAN PILOT. 
In 1792, near the famous " Giant's Grave," * lived a 
solitary pioneer of this mountain wilderness ; and a rude 
cabin of logs, covered with bark, was his only shelter. This 
man had no neighbor nearer than twelve miles, and naught 
but a rough hunting-path, marked by spotted trees, led 
thither through the notch. Wild beasts were plenty in all 
this mountain region. The first glowing accounts of the 
early hunters scarcely equalled the reality. All the streams 
were full of trouts. Moose, bears, wolves and wild-cats, 
were all very numerous in their undisturbed haunts, within 
the shadow of these towering crags, where the Indian 
hunter dared not leave his foot-marks. The name of this 
white man, who here lived in solitude, was Abel Crawford 
— the one who in after years most justly gained the title 
of the Veteran Pilot. He was the first guide for gentle- 
men strangers, who first came here to see the mountain 
scenery, independent of any scientific purpose. Let the 
name Crawford live with this mountain memory ! The 
steps of the old Veteran Pilot were among those gray old 
clifis, and dark, shadowy gorges, when log-cabins were the 
only habitation in all this northern wilderness. Then he 

* A well-known mound near the Fabyan ruins by the northern 
shore of the Amonoosuo. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 1 1 

dressed in the tanned skins of the moose, aad became in 
the chase a perfect Nimrod and a true disciple of the 
famed Izaak Walton. 

FIRST HOTEL. 

By the present ruins of the old Fabyan stand, on the 
westerly end of the " Giant's Grave," was erected the first 
public house for White Mountain visitors, in the year 
1803. A record of this fact is found in E. A. Crawford's 
journal, page twenty, of which the following is a true 
extract : " My grandfather built a large and convenient 
two-story dwelling on an elevated spot (this elevation has 
since been named Giant's Grave). This house had two 
stories under ground. From the chamber over this, in 
the second story, was an outside door, which opened so 
that one could walk out on this fine hill, from which, to 
the stranger, the view was beautiful." 

When owned by E. A. Crawford, in the year 1819» 
that house was burned ; and it is a singular fact that this 
is the only fine locality for a public (White Mountain) 
house, in full view from the tip-top rock of Mount Wash- 
ington ; and yet here three public houses have been burned 
since the year 1805, on and near this " Giant's Grave." 

INDIAN PROPHECY ON GIANT'S GRAVE 

There is a strange tradition extant, of an Indian, who, 
long years ago, stood on that mound, with a blazing pitch- 



18 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

pine torch, lighted at a tree struck by lightning, and, 
swinging it wildly around in the darkness, he said, " No 
pale-face shall take deep root here ; this the Great Spirit 
whispered in my ear^ 

THE WHITE MOUNTAIN GIANT. 

The name of E. A. Crawford is deeply chiselled upon 
the rocks of this gigantic Mount built by nature (Mount 
Washington) ; and the lady who shared in life his joys 
and sorrows has, in her "White Mountain History," 
reared a testimonial to his memory. Will not my humble 
tribute of a stone, laid in silence upon his grave, be 
accepted by all who pleasantly cherish the remembrance of 
^' Ethan of the Hills,'' or the " White Mountain Giant"? 

The subject of this sketch was born in Guildhall, Ver- 
mont, in the year 1792. When but a mere lad his parents 
moved to the White Mountains, and here he grew up a 
giant mountaineer, illustrating by his hardy habits, how 
daring enterprise and pure mountain climate nerve the man 
and stamp the hero upon mortality. Inheriting the house on 
the westerly end of the " Giant's Grave," with an encum- 
brance that made him worse than destitute of all worldly 
goods, he was one day shocked, when returning from 
hunting on the hills, to see his home burned down, and 
his wife and infant sheltered only by an open shed. 
Twelve miles one way, and six the other, to neight»ore 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 19 

here he was with his little family in the wilderness, desti- 
tute of every comfort, save that of hope. The sunshine of 
joy, unclouded by sorrow, and the warm smiles of good 
fortune, seem ever attendant upon the lives of some, con- 
stantly beckoning their favorites forward to the green 
fields of abundance, and bowers of pleasure and ease. 
Others, perchance born under a less favoring star, in their 
growth rise up like giants, breasting manfully, step by 
8tep, the wrecking storms of adversity, and by their own 
heroic exertions, hew out for themselves characters deeply 
lined, amid the black shadows of sorrow and disappoint- 
ment. Of such a mould was the spirit of Ethan A. Craw- 
ford. The inconveniences of poverty, that come like a 
strong man armed 4ipon poor mortality, and sickness 
and the many hardships linked with every-day life in a 
new settlement, fell to this man's share. Yet he cheer- 
fully performed the duties of life with an iron resolution, 
that stood misfortune's shocks as firmly as his own moun- 
tains stand storms and the changes of time. He was a 
tall, finely-proportioned man ; and, though called by many 
the " White Mountain Giant," beneath the rough exterior 
of the hardy mountaineer glowed constantly, in a heroio 
heart, the warm fire of love and manly virtue. The art- 
less prattle of his little children was sweet music to his 
spirit, and his ambitious aspirations were constantly 
invigorated by social comfort with his little family. 
3* 



iX) raSTORICAL RELICS OP 

CARRYING THE KETTLE AND DEER. 

The first display of Ethan's giant streTigth recorded is 
of his carrying on his head, across the Amonoosuc river, a 
potash-kettle, weighing four hundred pounds. 

In 1821 he caught a full-grown deer, in a wild gorge, 
four miles from home ; and as the trap had not broken his 
leg, and he appeared quite gentle, he thought to lead him 
home. Failing in his attempt to do this, he shouldered 
him and trudged homeward, over hill and through tangled 
brushwood, feeling by the way, perchance, like Crusoe, 
with his lamas, how fine it would be to have a park and 
many deer to show his visitors. But his day-visions van- 
ished ; for, on arriving at home, he found the deer so much 
injured that he died. 

At another time, he caught a vnld mountain-buck in a 
snare ; and, finding him too heavy to shoulder, he made 
Lim a halter of withes, and succeeded in halter-leading 
him so completely, that, after nearly a day spent in the 
attempt, he arrived at home with his prize, much to the 
wonder of all. 

THE GIANT LUGGING THE OLD BEAR. 

In 1829 Ethan caught a good-sized bear in a trap ; 
and thought to bind him with withes, and lead him home 
as he had the buck. In attempting to do this, the bear 
would catch with his paws at the trees; and our hero, 



THE WHITB MOUNTAINS. 21 

not willing to be outwitted by a bear, managed to get him 
on his shoulder, and, with one hand firmly hold of his nose, 
carried him two miles homeward. The bear, not well sat- 
isfied with his prospects, entered into a serious engage* 
ment with his captor, and by scratching and biting suo^ 
ceeded in tearing off his vest and one pantaloon-leg, so 
that Ethan laid him down so hard upon the rocks that he 
died. That fall he caught ten bears in that same wild 
glen. 

The first bear kept at the White Mountains for a show 
was caught by Ethan, while returning from the Mountain 
with two young gentlemen he had been up with as guide. 
Seeing a small bear cross their path, they followed him 
to a tree, which he climbed. Ethan climbed after, 
and, succeeding in getting him, tied his mouth up with 
a handkerchief, and backed him home. This bear he 
provided with a trough of water, a strap and pole ; and 
here he was for a long time kept, as the first tame bear of 
the mountains. This was about the year 1829. 

Ethan caught a wild-cat with a birch withe ! Once, 
when passing down the Notch, he was attracted to a tree 
by the barking of his dog, where, up among the thick 
branches, he discovered a full-grown wild-cat. Having 
only a small hatchet with him, he cut two long birch 
withes, and, twisting them well together, made a slip- 
noose, which he run up through the thick leaves ; and 



22 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

while the cat was watching the dog, he managed to get 
this noose over his head, and, with a sudden jerk, brought 
him to the ground. His dog instantly seized him, but 
was willing to beat a retreat till reinforced by his master, 
who with a heavy club came to the rescue. The skin of 
this cat, when stretched, measured over six feet. 

Ethan's two close shots are worthy of note. One fall, 
while setting a sable line, about two miles back of the 
Notch, he discovered a little lake, set, like a diamond, in 
a rough frame-work of beetling crags. The fresh signs of 
moose near, and trouts seen in its shining waters, was 
sufficient inducement to spend a night by its shady shore 
About sunset, while engaged in catching a string of trouts, 
his attention was suddenly arrested by a loud splashing in 
the still water around a rocky point, where, on looking, 
he saw two large brown moose pulling up lily-roots, and 
fighting the flies. Prepared with an extra charge, he 
fired ; and before the first report died in echoes among the 
peaks, the second followed, and both moose fell dead in 
the lake. Ethan labored hard to drag his game ashore ; 
but late that evening bright visions of marrow-bones and 
broiled trouts flitted like realities around him. That 
night a doleful dirge rose in that wild gorge ; but our 
hero slept soundly, between two warm moose-skins. He 
cared not for the wild wolves that scented the taint of the 
fresh blood in the wind. That little mountain sheet is 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 23 

iio?7, from the above circumstance, known as " EtJiaiVi 
Pond." 

Ethan was always proud to speak of how he carried a 
lady two miles down the mountain on his shoulders. It 
was no uncommon affair for him to shoulder a man and 
lug him down the mountain ; but his more delicate 
attempts to pack a young lady down the steep rocks, he 
seemed to regard as an important incident in his adven- 
turous career. Miss E. Woodward was the name of the 
lady who received from the Mountain Giant such marked 
attention. By a wrong step she became very lame,, and 
placing, as well as he could, a cushion of coats upon his 
right shoulder, the lady became well seated, and he 
thus brought her down to where they left their horses. 

By Adino N. Brackett's Journal, published in Moore's 
His. Col, vol. 1st, page 97, it appears that Adino N. 
Brackett, John W. Weeks, Gen. John Willson, Charles J. 
Stuart, Esq., Noyes S. Dennison, and Samuel A. Pearson, 
Esq., from Lancaster, N. H., with Philip Carrigan and E. 
A. Crawford, went up, July 31st, 1820, to name the dif- 
ferent summits. Gen. John Willson, of Boston, is now, 
1855, the only survivor of that party. "They made 
Ethan their pilot, and loaded him with provisions and 
blankets, like a pack-horse ; and then, as they began to 
asqend, they piled on top of his load their coats." 
This party had a fine time ; and, after giving the nameg 
of our sages to the different peaks, according to their alti- 



SI HISTORICAL BSLICS 07 

tude, they drank health to these hoary cliffs, in honor tc 
the illustrious men whose names they were, from this date, 
to bear ; then, curled down among the rocks, without fire, 
on the highest crag, they doubtless spent the first night 
mortals ever spent on that elevated place. In the morn- 
ing, after seeing the sun rise out of the ocean far, far 
below them, they descended westerly from the apex about 
a mile, and came to a beautiful sheet of water (Lake of 
the Clouds), near a ridge of rocks, which, when they left, 
they named ''Blue Pond." It doubtless looked blue to 
them ; for something they carried in bottles so weakened 
the limbs of one of the party that Ethan was, from this 
place, burdened with a back-load of mortality, weighing 
two hundred pounds, down to the Amonoosuc valley. Thus 
we find Ethan most emphatically the " Giant of the Moun- 
tains." He never hesitated to encounter any danger that 
appeared in his path, whether from wild beasts, flood, or 
mountain tempest. 

The First Bridle-path on the White Mountains was 
made in 1819. As there had got to be ten or twelve 
visitors a year, to see these mountains, at this date, Ethan 
thought, to accommodate his company, he would cut a path 
as far as the region of scrub vegetation extended. It had 
been very difficult to go without a road, clambering over 
trees, up steep ledges, through streams, and over the hedgy 
scrub-growth; and accordingly, when the fact of a path being 



THE WHITE MO¥NTAINS. 25 

made was published, the fame of this region spread like 
wild-fire. This path was started at the head of the notch 
near Gibbs' House, and, extending to the top of Mount 
Clinton, reached from thence to the top of Mount Wash- 
ington, nearly where Gibbs' Path now is. Soon after the 
completion of this path, the necessity of a cabin, where 
visitors could stop through the night, was perceivable by 
Ethan ; and accordingly he built a stone cabin, near the 
top of Mount Washington, by a spring of water that lives 
there, and spread in it an abundance of soft moss for beds, 
that those who wished to stop here through the night, to 
see the sun set and rise, might be accommodated. This 
rude home for the traveller was soon improved, and fur- 
nished with a small stove, an iron chest, and a long roll of 
sheet-lead ; — the chest was to secure from the bears and 
hedge-hogs the camping-blankets ; and, according to tradi- 
tion, around that old chest many who hungered have en- 
joyed a hearty repast. That roll of lead was for visitors 
to engrave their names on with a sharp iron. Alas ! thai 
tale-telling sheet has been moulded into bullets, and thai 
old chest was buried by an avalanche. How all things 
pass away ! 

In 1821 the first ladies visited Mount Washington. 
This party, of which these ladies numbered three, had 
Ethan for its guide, and, proceeding to the stone cabin, 
waited there through a storm for several days, that they 



26 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

might be the first females to accomplish the unrecorded 
feat of ascending Mount Washington. This heroic little 
party was the Misses Austin, of Portsmouth, N. H., being 
accompanied by their brother and an Esq. Stuart, of 
Lancaster. Everything was managed as much for their 
comfort as possible ; the little stone cabin was provided 
with an outside addition, in which the gentlemen staid, 
that their companions might be more retired and comfort- 
able. This party came near being what the sailor might 
call " weather-bound." They were obliged to send back 
for more provisions; and at last the severe mountain- 
storm passed away, and that for which they had ambi- 
tiously endured so much exposure was granted them. 
They went to the top, had a fine prospect, and, after an 
absence of five days, returned from the mountains, in fine 
spirits, highly gratified with their adventure. This heroic 
act should confer an honor upon the names of this pioneer 
party, as everything was managed with so much prudence 
and modesty that there was not left even a shadow for re- 
proach, save by those who felt themselves outdone ; so says 
record. 

In the summer of 1840 the first horse that ever climbed 
the rocks of Mount Washington was rode up by old Abel 
Crawford. The old man was then seventy-five years old, 
and though his head was whitened by the snows of many 
winters, his blood was stirred, on that occasion, by the 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 27 

ambitious animation of more youthful days. There he 
sat proudly upon his noble horse, with uncovered bead, 
and the wind played lightly with his venerable white 
locks. Truly that was a picture worthy an artist's skill. 
Holding that horse by the rein, there stood his son Ethan, 
as guide to his old father. The son and the parent ! — 
worthy representatives of the mighty monument, to the re- 
membrance of which, their pioneer exertions have added 
fadeless fame. From that day a new era dawned on these 
mountains. Forget not the veteran Abel, and Ethan " the 
White Mountain Giant." 

The White Mountain Guides should all be remembered 
In our lengthy notice of Ethan, the White Mountai? 
Gia?it, we do not mean to eclipse the worthy deeds of 
other noble mountain spirits, who have followed his old 
path, and even made new ones for their own feet. This 
mountain region is truly haunted, as it were, by peculiar 
influences, that call to its attractions as dauntless men for 
guides as our New England mountain-land can boast. 
Ethan A. Crawford came here when this was a wilder- 
ness-land, unknown to fame. The fashionable world knew 
nothing of its peculiarities. He spent much time, even 
the energies of his life, exploring the wild gorges and dan- 
gerous peaks of the mountains, and became a mighty 
hunter. He was, in fact, the bold pioneer who, with his 
old father, opened the way whereby the " Crystal Hills " 
4 



28 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

became known to the world. " Honor to whom honor is 
due ! " Then let us not be unmindful of Ethan, who 
grappled with nature in her wildness, and made gigantic 
difficulties surmountable ; and let us remember the names 
"Tom Crawford," "Hartford," "Hall," "Cogswell;" 
"Dana, and Lucius M. Rosebrook," "Leavitt," "Hayes," 
and others, who have followed piloting for a series of years 
on these mountains. These are all men in whose hands 
the tourist was comparatively safe ; and, though the most 
of the above names are with the past, others are on the 
stage, who have an ambitious desire to outdo, even, in 
skill and management, those whose footsteps they follow. 
We will not praise the living guides of the White Moun- 
tains; their actions speak monuments of honor to their 
own names. Have confidence in their integrity ; and may 
they never betray their trust ! 

TRADITIONS OF SILVER AND GOLD. 

From an ancient record, in manuscript, found in an old, 
worm-eaten chest, among files of papers relating to the 
early exploration and survey of the northern wilderness, 
appears the following : 

" Espying what could be found in this wild country, as 
we came to the shadow of this exceeding great mountain, 
we drew near to a little lake among high rocks. Here 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 29 

we still hunted a moose, and, kindling a fire of pine knots, 
enjoyed a great feast. Game was thick here; and we 
could as easily count the sand as the spotted fish in the 
stream. By this water we discovered a pine log, much 
decayed, with fire-marks on the ends, and the middle was 
burned out like as if a fire had been kindled on it to make 
it a rude canoe. We found good store of curious stones, 
that we esteemed to be diamonds (crystal quartz). At 
the foot of a high rock, near the water, we picked up cer- 
tain leaves of fine silver and gold as thick as a man's nail; 
and we found all the little mountain streams shining with 
particles of silver, with many shining bits in the rocks. 
After many days of toilsome travel, we returned from this 
wonderful mountain, with bloody, bare feet, and got of the 
Indians moccasins, made of raw moose-hide. We found 
rude wigwams, made of poles stuck in the ground, with 
birch-bark spread over. Around these hunting places 
were many horns of moose, and piles of bones, eagle-claws 
and bear-skins, which made us liken these great valleys 
among the hills to the home of many wild beasts. No 
man, among all the wild men we met, dared go up to the 
high, naked rock, for fear the « Great Master of Life ' 
would destroy them. In a black storm of rain that fell 
there, the mountain trembled, and the rocks were like 
altars burning with fire. From a peak of bare rocks we 
ifiw the wide land of the Iroquois Indians, with the great 



30 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

valley of the long Canada river. Lakes, high hills, and 
deep valleys, where wild men hunt elks, moose and bears, 
were around us. It is a terrible wilderness of mountains 
and game." — Old Manuscript. 

TRADITION OF CARBUNCLES. 

Some of the early explorers of these mountains with 
great solemnity affirmed that they saw, hanging from the 
crags, great carbuncles, whose brilliancy was glorious to 
behold. This report attracted the attention of adventur- 
ers ; and several exploring parties have visited these moun- 
tains, with the hope of finding rich and rare gems of great 
value ; but, though various attempts have been made to 
gain possession of these wonders, none have yet been ob- 
tained. It is recorded that some of these carbuncle hunt- 
ers have taken with them spiritual advisers to " lay " or 
"exorcise" the supernatural guardians of the mountain 
wealth ; but all to no purpose. In an old White Mountain 
record is found a journal of a carbuncle seeker : — " Hear- 
ing that a glorious carbuncle had been found under a large 
shelving rock, difficult to obtain, placed there by the In- 
dians who killed one of their number, that an evil spirit 
might haunt the place, we went up Dry river, with guides, 
and had with us a good man to lay the evil spirit ; but 
returned sorely bruised, treasureless, and not even saw that 
wmderful sight,^^ Recently no mention has been made 



TOE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 31 

of wonderful carbuncles ; and there is a tradition that an 
old Indian pronounced a curse, called "Me red man^s 
curse,'^ upon the pale-faced gem-seekers; and when he 
died his last wish was (to save his spirit the trouble of 
keeping the mountain-treasure from the white man's pol- 
luting touch, by enchantment), that the Great Spirit would 
send a black storm of fire and thunder, and splinter the 
crags, and roll down the carbuncles with mighty ava- 
lanches, and bury them deeply in the valleys, beneath the 
ruins of rocks and trees. 

THE INDIAN GHOST. 
There are those now living in the shadow of these 
mountains who seem to believe that, every " fall of the 
leaf," on a certain night, a supernatural brightness glows 
upon a particular crag, and the giant ghost of an Indian 
warrior, fancifully arrayed in a black bear-skin war-robe, 
with a bloody stone tomahawk, and a broken horn-beam 
bow, may be seen dancing in the wind, by the light, to the 
measure of his self-sang dirge. At such times the snow 
disappears from off the rocks around ; but no mountaineer 
has ever been found capable of climbing the ice-crags, to 
satisfy the curiosity whether or not fire-marks may at 
such times be found. 

LOST SPmiTS' LOOKING-GLASSES. 

If a humble addition may here be allowed, might not 

4* 



Wm HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

these wonderful carbuncles have been merely rocks seen at 
a distance, covered with water or ice, with the sunlight 
reflected to favor the delusion? Or, if we need a tincture 
of the miraculous, perchance some of Darby Field's Mus- 
covy glass was so arranged by the mountain genii, as to 
answer for looking-glasses, in which lost Indian spirits 
might see themselves. But even this isinglass, of such 
size, cannot be found, for a wonder. Has not the brother 
of the speculative Yankee who attempted to whittle the 
north pole up for tooth-picks, spirited this even away, 
that it might be devoted to mechanical purposes by the 
utilitarian age ? Speak, ye who can say ! 

ROGERS AND HIS RANGERS. 

The night of October 3d, 1765, the St. Francis Indians, 
at their village on the bank of the river for which their 
tribe was named, held a grand war-dance. Fair maidens 
and brave young warriors were there, with light hearts ; 
and wildly in the night rose their triumph-song, as they 
swung in air the scalp-locks of a hundred pale-faces. They 
dreamed not that a spy was in their ring, and that ere 
another sun the three pale-faced captives, who sorrowfully 
listened to their barbaric jubilee, would wade through 
their warm blood, and be far on the long trail over the 
mountains. 

Robert Rogers, dispatched, with two hundred (some his- 
fcorians say five hundred) tried rangers, through the long 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 33 

wilderness, to chastise these Indians for that in celebration 
of which thej this night held the great dance, was there ; 
and when daylight returned, their village was in ashes, 
and hundreds slept the sleep of death. Belknap, in his 
New Hampshire History, says: "The houses of these 
Indians were well furnished, and their church was richly 
adorned with plate." Two hundred guineas, with a silver 
image weighing eight pounds, and a great quantity of rich 
wampum, were taken from this church as lawful plunder. 
Satisfied with his work, Rogers made his retreat up the 
St. Francis river, intending with his men to pass the carry- 
ing-place to Magog Lake, thence home to the south part 
of Laconia: (N. H.). The snow came on deep, and, being 
pursued by the remnant left after the destruction of that 
Indian village, several of their number were killed ; and, 
after wandering many days, they became scattered, and 
many perished by hunger and cold. The early settlers 
of Cohos (Coos) found relics of this ill-fated party, and 
later, among the White Mountains sad vestiges arise in 
the twilight of tradition ; and, faithful to the living history 
of this famous mountain, they shall have record. 

SILVER IMAGE, WAMPUM, AND MONEY. 

In the retreat and pursuit following the result of Rogers* 

expedition most of the rangers followed their leader's 

command, while small detached parties, throwing off all 

martial restraint, made independent homeward trails fot 



34 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

themselves. One small party of nine, leaving the waters 
running northward, passed the highlands, and came upon 
a stream that evidently fell into the Connecticut. Here 
they resolved to strike that river at the head of the falls 
(now called Fifteen Miles Falls), southerly of Upper Cohos, 
and, following up the stream (John's river) that came from 
the •' Crystal Hills," pass over to the valley of the Amo- 
noosuc, and through the Notch, homeward. This party 
had expected to meet a detachment on the Connecticut, 
from old No. 4 (now Charleston N. H.), with supplies ; 
and, being disappointed in this, in a most travel-worn 
and destitute condition, after waiting several days they 
yielded to the guidance of an Indian runner, who oflPered 
to conduct them to the great pass of the •' Crystal Hills." 
They did not dream that this Indian was acting false, by 
knowing the prophecy of the gray-headed old Indian, who 
in the St. Francis church said to the plunderers of the 
treasure there, " The Great Spirit will scatter darkness 
upon the path of the pale-faces ! " How literally this 
prophecy was fulfilled, the end shows more clearly than 
facts seen in the mist of dreams. This Indian guide led 
his charge up the Connecticut to the mouth of the next 
river, which he called Singrawack,* and from thence they 

* This name signifies "i^oamy Stream of the White bock." 
JDa memory of a great hunter, Israel Starke who long ago hunted 
in the valley of this stream, it has been called •* Israel's river." 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 85 

followed up to near the foot of the White Mountains, where 
he left them. This little party had in charge the plunder 
taken from the Indian church, and to him who bore the 
treasure, the Indian gave a rude birch-bark map, descrip- 
tive of their route thence. The reason given by the Indian 
guide for going no further was pretended fear that the 
Great Spirit would kill him, if he left his footprints in the 
shadow of the great snowy Agiochook. The ranger who 
received the birch map did not notice an apparently 
accidental scratch given him on the back of his hand by 
the guide on the receipt of the map ; but when his hand 
began to swell, suspicion rested upon the false guide. 
Symptoms of poison became strikingly apparent, and the 
increasing inflammation gave speed to his blood, and fear 
mingled with pain pressed madness into his brain, and 
with frightful shrieks of rage he rushed to a high rock, 
and, throwing himself down, was dashed to pieces. The 
gloom of death in their midst, combined with the startling 
circumstances, was like a black night-shadow upon the 
future prospects of this little party ; and, holding a brief 
council, the decision was that their companion came to his 
death by a slight wound of a rattlesnake's fang, designed 
by their Indian guide. With the remembrance of the 

This river turns the machinery of the thriv^ing village of Lancas- 
ter, as it passes through, on its foaming track to the broad Connect- 
icat, with which it mingles a mile below Lancaster village 



36 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

Indian prophecy fresh in mind, they resolved to bury th« 
mangled remains of their mate, with his knapsack contain- 
ing the stolen treasure, carefully in a rude cave, where the 
red hunter dared not leave his footmarks. 

According to old tradition, of that party of nine but one 
ever reached the settlement below the mountains. Being 
misled by their false guide, they miscalculated as to the 
certainty of passing down the mountain notch ; and, being 
the distance of two river valleys to the northward of the 
point from which they might have passed through safely, 
they wandered many days in vain attempt to attain their 
object, and, after extreme suffering from hunger, and the 
rigorous storms of approaching winter, one only arrived to 
tell the sad story of misery and death. This ragged and 
forlorn-looking mortal had with him six knives, and in his 
bloody knapsack was a piece of human flesh, of which for 
the last eight days he declared he had ea.ten to support the 
flickering spark of life that now but faintly burned within 
him. 

RANGERS' RELICS FOUND. 
When the early hunters came to the valley of the Cohos 
(meadow of pines), on a pine-tree standing up in a wild 
gorge, on what the Indians called Singrawack, was a bark- 
less spot, whereon was a curious mingling of storm-worn 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 37 

kieroglyphical characters. Near this was found the 
remains of a military dress — rusty buttons, &c., with a 
gun-barrel, lock, rotten stock, and a small copper kettle. 
In another place, while digging away the rubbish at the 
foot of a steep bank near which a block-house had lately 
been erected, in place of an expected spring of water 
were found six old gun-barrels, and what appeared to be 
a pile of knapsacks, containing a quantity of frogs and 
fish-bones. A certain old hunter, by the delusive influence 
of three similar dreams, fancied that he should become 
wealthy by untiring search for precious treasures among 
the White Hills. One day, while engaged in his exploring 
operations, a terrible mountain storm obliged him to seek 
shelter under an overhanging cliff. While there he noticed, 
back in a dark corner, among the shadows of this rude 
cave, several flat stones piled up in a manner too curious 
to be natural. On examination under this pile, he found 
a rusty old hatchet, and a roll of birch-bark, neatly 
encased in wild-bees' wax. A disagreeable stench rose 
from the damp mould within the crevice wherein these 
relics were secured, and a silent fear of he knew not what 
caused the old hunter to instinctively withdraw from 
further examination. Within the birch-bark roll he found 
a parchment, formed of an Indian-tanned fawn-skin, on 
which were written many characters, which to the unlet- 
tered hunter were mysterious. He carried his unaccount* 



38 HISTORICAL RELICS 01 

able prize to the nearest settlement, and, being void of all 
antiquarian spirit, sold it to a distiller of spirits for two 
quarts of potato-whiskey. Here the mysterious manu- 
script disappeared, and by many it is believed to have 
been burned with the whiskey-shop in 1804. Be this as it 
may, the old hunter now fancied he could lead a party of 
treasure-seekers to the hiding-place of the silver image, 
and other treasure supposed to be there somewhere, in 
sacred keeping of the mountain genii. Ere we proceed to 
notice the party in search for the secrets of the mountain 
cave, we will note other wild traditions, that stalk before 
us like gigantic shadows, speaking from the past, saying, 
" Whether false or true, time-honored fictions, in this 
imaginative age, are as much of a legal tender for the liter' 
ary world, as dry modern facts. '^ 

STRANGE SIGHTS SEEN. 
Years previous to a settlement near these mountains, a 
hunter brought from thence what was considered by many 
a vague report of a strange vision seen. He was alone, 
and what part imagination had to do with what he fancied 
to be true, judge ye who please. He was camping far up 
among the White Hills, on a stream called by the natives 
" Singrawack," one night, when his camp-fire burned low, 
and a dreamy restlessness mocked his desire to enjoy 
profound sleep ; and to his sight, on a background of deep 



TBE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 89 

blue sky, arose the craggy mountaiD, enlivened by the 
magic splendor of a moonlit night. The mountain's 
northern side was hid in its own dark shadow ; but silvery 
moonbeams were glittering upon its pointed rock, and 
around its top hung a still, thick mist. Above the mur- 
muring of mountain waterfalls rose a strange noise 
indistinctly ; but, being of a stout heart, he heeded it 
not, save as the ominous hoot of some solitary owl, or the 
lone howl of a hungry wolf, giving zest to his hopeless 
employment by keeping up his spirits with a rude sere- 
nade for the moonlit night. The hunter's nerves were 
like steel, but a fanciful influence changed the mist to a 
great stone church, and within this was an altar, where 
from a sparkling censer rose a curling wreath of incense- 
smoke, and around it lights dispersed a mellow glow, by 
which in groups before that altar appeared a tribe of 
savages kneeling in profound silence. A change came in 
the wind ; a song loud and long rose as a voice-oflfering to 
the Great Spirit ; then glittering church-spire, church and 
altar, vanished, and down the steep rock trailed a long 
line of strange-looking men, in solemn silence. Before all, 
as borne by some airy sprite, sported a glittering image 
of silver, which in the deep shadows changed to fairy shape, 
and, with sparkling wings, disappeared in the rent rocks. 
A loud laugh of brutal triumph, combined with the strange 
vision, startled to consciousness the hunter ; and, musing on 
5 



40 HISTORICAL RELICS OP 

what had passed, he rekindled his fire by the light of 
morning over the eastern mountains. 

Another report declares that, not far from the period 
of which we speak, another hunter was startled from pro- 
found sleep in the dead of night by most hideous screech- 
ings, as of a man in the last agonies of extreme torture. 
At intervals, through the remainder of the night, above the 
roar of the mountain stream rose strange noises, either 
through fancy or reality. 

Connected with the same odd train, so much in keeping 
with the spirit of wild legendary adventure, comes another 
account, that, in a superstitious, witchcraft age, might cause 
some credulous ones to become confident. There once 
came a great storm, out of which came a voice, saying : 
" That pagan treasure from St. Francis may Twt remain 
a secret to adventure till the Great Spirit's thunder dies 
on the crags of Agiochook.'" When these words were pro- 
nounced, the apparition of a skeleton Indian, with ribs 
like loud-sounding harp-strings, was followed by an armed 
train of pale-faces ; an Indian village was burning, and 
from the blood and ruins of the fire-lit night a soldier 
appeared, bearing a silver image, money and wampum 
away to the woods. After thus much of the wonderful, 
the precise locality of the treasure, with a power to do 
away the influence of enchantment, was reserved for the 
genius of 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 41 

THE OLD FORTUNE-TELLER. 

The history of " image Tmmory,'^ as connected with these 
bald peaks, has connected with it the old Fortune-teller, 
who, by her wonderful disclosures, had the credit of being 
leagued with the spirits of another world. By her high 
pretensions, she held the power of divination, and among 
her superstitious votaries passed for what no mortal is. 
She had a magic stone, said to have been found in a cave 
among the mountains, and possessing marvellous supposed 
virtues. This was considered as a priceless treasure by 
Indian Magi — fit offering to the Great Spirit. Such was 
the ^^ favoring star " that ruled her strange destiny, that 
from this stone she pretended to read events of the past 
and future. Her home was a rude mud hovel, in a by- 
place, where she was visited by but few, save those who 
ignorantly believed in her magical power. She sought no 
mortal sympathy, and busied her loneliness in seeking poi- 
son-herbs, which were potent helps to her power. Many 
believed she could blast the hopes of youth by one wither- 
ing look of displeasure, change the boldest heart to one 
of fear, and dry, by one wave of her hand, the blood of 
ambition in the veins of manhood ; and, in short, her vic- 
tims believed her immortal. Her art was solicited as an 
aid to the accomplishment of the object had in view by 
the fortune adventurers. 



42 HISTORICAL RELICS Of 

SEARCH FOR THE IMAGE, MONEY, AND WAMPUM. 

The hunter who had found the hatchet and bark roll, 
with four other adventurers, made ready for a search for 
the silver image, &c., with the old fortune-teller as a 
figure-head for the enterprise. She agreed, if the party 
would but abide her arrangements, they should be suc- 
cessful. Accordingly, her labelled phials, apparatus for 
burning drugs, smattering of mystic words in an un- 
known tongue, with the magic stone, completed for her 
a fancied latent power, equal in confidence to try skill 
with the mighty magician of all foul incantations. She 
pretended the treasure they sought was under the influ- 
ence of strong enchantment ; and, by a fancied combination 
of astrology, alchemy and divination, she declared that 
the next night the situation of the stars would be favor- 
able for their purpose. With pick, bar, spade and axe, 
together with the old Fortune-teller's spiritual weap- 
ons, early in the morning this little party started for the 
mountains, with sufficient imaginary power to lay the 
ill-will of the most fearful hobgoblins that ever walked in 
darkness. Once in motion, with their physical and spirit- 
ual apparatus in view, a moderate stretch of fancy might 
startle the supposition that, with individual assurance, 
their object was to dare the infernal regions, and poison 
the imps with a refined portion of the old fortune-teller's 



THE WHITS MOUNTAINS. 4S 

phialled-up veDom. The old huBter who had found the 
relics had but little faith in her art ; yet his love of ad- 
venture led him to brave the ridicule of those who were but 
slightly tinctured in mind by superstition, while he at the 
same time cherished an injury against her that was deeply 
hacked in his memory. He was an old bachelor, and he 
believed the old fortune-teller had been guilty of poison- 
ing the one of his choice, to gratify the ill-will cherished 
by an unwelcome rival ; and he had been heard to say, 
" Give me but time to prove that the old hag is not in- 
vincible by her covenant with the devil, and I die con- 
tented.'' In sullen silence he marked out their path ; and, 
as he trailed along with his rifle laid across one arm, with 
a hunting-knife, suspended by a leathern girdle, in its 
shaggy bear-skin sheath, it would have been pleasant to 
those who are gratified by studying variety of character 
to have noted his |)roud bearing. He had already had 
hard words with the old fortune-teller, and now there was 
meaning in the stern expression of his weather-tanned 
face. Time had deeply furrowed his brow, and habit had 
thereon contracted an eternal scowl, which, with a cold, 
fixed stare, as he plodded onward, told of a design that 
was steeling his heart for its accomplishment. 

It is sufficient to hasten forward to the concluding 
scene, by noting that the old fortune-teller and the hunter 
had a falling out, as they halted to eat their " cold lunch ; " 
5* 



44 HISTORICAL REIiCS OP 

and, drawing his knife, he swore he would know on the 
spot whether she was in league or not with invisible 
powers. Bloodshed was doubtless alone prevented by timely 
interference of others of the party, and she declared she 
could find that treasure without the hunter's aid, and 
would not proceed further under his guidance. From this 
point she became guide ; and, having assumed this right, 
such scrambling over bush and log, through swamp and 
brook, was seldom undergone before, perchance, by one 
who on winged thought could compass space by the art of 
magic. Much of the activity of better days had been 
kept alive by the old fortune-teller, by her active habits, 
through woods and fields in search for roots and herbs ; 
and either on the uprising vapor from broken phials, or 
by the transforming power of magic, they arrived, about 
sunset, near where accounts had fixed the location of the 
treasure. The precise spot was soon pointed out by the aid 
of a peculiar rod, and the " magic stone ; " and all things 
were prepared for successful search, when that night the 
position of the "favoring star " might make known the 
exact moment. The night threatened to be dark and 
showery; and, with gloomy forebodings of an uprising 
tempest, the wind roared mournfully over the lone wil- 
derness ; and high up among the rocks, in a narrow copse 
of scrub spruce, glimmered a little, wavering fire. Around 
that fire, within range of the fitful glare it sent out upon 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 45 

the starless night, was the male portion of that treasure- 
seeking party (excepting the old hunter), gravely watch- 
ing every motion of the old fortune-teller, as, with a jab- 
berish jargon of discords, she tended a pot of simmering 
herbs. Lazily the hours crept on towards midnight, and 
all wondered why the old hunter did not come ; and, at 
last, with all things ready, the female genius gave the 
watchword " ready ! " and next followed the order 
** strike ! " with the caution not to cease searching till 
she gave warning that the spell was broken, and the treas- 
ure was within their grasp. Then arose the din of spade 
and bar, and the clinking pickaxe struck sparks from the 
^flinty rocks, as the diggers toiled on ; and, busy as a 
bewitching spirit in a gale of wind, the old fortune-teller 
fluttered about, now here, now there, strewing the mid- 
night air with volatile odor from an uncorked phial, urg- 
ing the men to unremitting diligence, and ever and anon 
waving her wand through the black night, with a wild 
muttering of strange words accompanying. Wrought up 
to the highest pitch by avaricious excitement, nerved by 
mingled fear and hope, they had little heeded the terrific 
warfare that the elements were gathering in the distance 
to break in fury about their heads. The dolorous mur 
muring of the roused wind, that at dark swept over th* 
groaning woods, had now increased to a heavy gale, thai 
wildly whirled about the naked rocks, above and below 



#B HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

and the lightning, that had long been advancing with a 
wider curve over the front of the on-coming thunder-cloud, 
now changed the black darkness to a mighty heaving mass 
of liquid fire ; then the roar of the thunder burst among 
the craggy rocks, echoing in continued peals, shaking the 
very mountain with a noise like the voioe of an upheaving 
earthquake. A terrible crash followed, like the falling 
of a hundred towering pines ; and, with the flood loosened 
from the clouds by the shock, rocks and trees rolled in 
fearful destruction down the mountain gorge. The flick- 
ering light of their uncertain pine torch disappeared in 
the wind, and between the vivid flashes that in quick suc- 
cession followed appeared a slight glimpse of total chaos.* 
Consternation seized those men ; and, hesitating, the 
voice of the old fortune-teller screamed, amid the dire coa- 
fusion of thunder, wind and water, " Dig, men, dig ! the 
power of light or darkness cannot harm you ! This raging 
is the powerful influence of strong enchantment ! Dig ! 
— • dig ! — the treasure must come forth amid the convul- 
sions of the elements ! " Ere she had finished speaking, 
another flash revealed the diggers standing, like pale 
ghosts, reckless of her command. Like a wild fury, she 
leaped into the hollow among moved rocks, and, with one 
despairing shriek, fell to work, cursing her companions. 
A loud, shrill whoop rose up with the din of the storm, 
in mocking answer to her rage ; and when next a blue 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 4T 

twinkling flame spread over the black rocks a ghostly 
light, a giant form arose from the mist, hurled over the 
precipice kettle and phial, and, taking the " magic stone " 
in both hands, when next a flash lit up the scene, a fierce 
grin appeared upon a visage strangely like the old hunt- 
er's face, — a deep groan followed, — again electric fire 
lit up rock and cloud; and, with a wild, loud laugh, 
the phantom of the mist was seen dragging the old for- 
tune-teller by her hair towards the brink of the precipice. 
Our heroes of *' image-seeking memory " waited to see no 
more. Fancying the powers of the earth and air com- 
bined against their enterprise, they made random leaps, 
through the darkness, down precipitous rocks, and anon 
lighted for a moment by a flash on the steep and danger- 
ous way, arrived in the low valley, wet, weary, bruised, 
and frightened. Next morning the sun rose clear over the 
mountains, lighting the mist that hung on the glitter- 
ing rocks ; and where the last night's battle had been, 
upon bush, rock and moss, sparkled a thousand rain- 
drops, like priceless gems in nature's glorious crown. The 
fate of the old fortune-teller and hunter to this day 
remains a mystery ; but the track made by the scathing 
lightning that fearful night may now be seen ; and the 
traditions preserved by the simple-minded settlers near 
associate with their importance a saintly fear, when they 
call to mind the circumstances of that night. Around 



48 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

that time-honored spot, strange wailings may now be heard 
when the wind is high ; and some fancy that a giant 
Indian spirit watches near, and, with goodly semblance of 
sincerity, the same believe that, bound in some dark cav- 
ern, the old fortune-teller and hunter in spirit dwell 
together in torment. 

THE OLD BRASS PLATE. 

About the year 1802, a curious brass plate, covered 
with hieroglyphical inscriptions, of apparently ancient 
date, was found under a rock near the top of Mount 
Washington. When it was placed there, or by whom, is 
yet a profound mystery. There was through the plate a 
hole, and a piece of rusty copper, that appeared to be a 
bolt once used to secure it to the rock. According to 
tradition, this brass was of irregular shape, having been 
apparently much eaten by rust ; and, from its real appear- 
ance, the characters were said to be in an unknown 
tongue ; and, in short, of very imperfect and doubtful im- 
port. This was found by an explorer, or hunter ; and, 
being carried to the then new settlement of Jackson, below 
the mountain, for a while created a short-lived excitement, 
and at last disappeared entirely. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 49 

DISCOVERY OF NOTCH. 
By record it appears that this remarkable defile was 
known to the aborigines, but was never used by them as 
a crossing-place for their captives, or as a war-path, till 
white explorers in part wiped from their moral vision the 
dark superstition that such approach to Agiochook would 
be deemed by the Great Spirit pardonless sacrilege. For 
many years after it was known to the first hunters 
this Notch became forgotten or neglected, till the year 
1771, when it was re-discovered by two hunters, Nash and 
Savyyer. They drove a moose up a wild mountain stream, 
surrounded by towering crags ; and, with the belief that 
it was a deep gorge, surrounded behind by mountains, 
they followed, animated by the thought of making an easy 
conquest of their intended victim. Imagine their disap- 
pointment when they found their purpose thwarted by 
tracing the foot-prints of the moose along an ancient Indian 
trail, over high precipices, to a little meadow quite on the 
other side of the mountain ! These hunters published this 
interesting discovery, and were rewarded by the tract of 
land, northerly from the Notch, known as " Nash and 
Sawyer's Location." 

DESCRIP 

The Notch is a narrow rent, extending more than two 
miles between towering crags. This is doubtless the 



no mSTORICAL EELICS OF 

naightj work of some overwhelming internal convulsion , 
or, perchance, the deluge here tore mountains asunder. 
The entrance of this wonderful chasm is about twenty-two 
feet wide, forming in itself a strange natural gateway, 
with high mountain fragments piled up on either side, 
receding as you go down, till their tops reach the clouds 
From a little beaver meadow the Saco river rises north- 
erly from this gateway, and, struggling down its narrow 
bounds, shares with the road its wild gulf; and, having 
passed through the mountain, bears its tribute onward to 
the ocean. Words cannot describe faithfully the magnifi- 
cent scenery of the Notch. This wonderful display of 
Almighty power creates invariably sensations of awe and 
mortal weakness. Passing low down between the ruins 
of mountains rent to their foundation, the tourist will 
notice a beautiful waterfall on the left, that, foaming over 
a series of rocks, falls in one place, nearly perpendicular, 
eight hundred feet. This was by Dr. Dwight very appro- 
priately named Silver Cascade, and is said to be one of the 
finest waterfalls in the world. Below, a short distance, on 
the same side, falls another stream, clear and beautiful. 
This, from having worn a channel deeply into the rock, is 
called The Flume. In one place this stream leaps a 
hundred feet ; and its whole course from the clouds down 
is foamy and wild. For two thirds of the year a more 
•desolate place can hardly be imagined than this Notch. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 51 

Dismal winds moan through the leafless trees, and 
through the fissures of the rocks ; and methinks the poor 
storm-bound traveller here in fancy has heard the genii 
of the mountain, sending through this gorge a deafening 
chorus of most frightful music. Woe, then, to poor mor- 
tality, when the snow falls fast, and the king of tempests 
rides on the wings of the hurricane through the clouds, 
armed with winter's cold, blinding sleet, and avalanches 
of ice ! 

ThQ first settler through the Notch was Col. Whipple, 
from Portsmouth, N. H. He came up in the year 1772, 
and he was at that time enabled to get his cattle up 
through the Notch by means of teacles and ropes, as the 
hunter's path was over several precipices, now shunned 
by the travelled way. All the way through the northern 
wilderness of Laconia (now N. H.), with the needful means 
of civilization with him, he came, scaled the crags that hang 
around that mighty rent through mountains, and by his 
enterprise earned the honor of being the first white man 
who made a permanent settlement in the township of 
Dartmouth (now Jefferson). 

li^\iQ first female through the Notch was one who in her 
old age was known as " Granny Stalbird." She came up 
with Col. Whipple in 1776, as his servant-girl. After- 
wards she married, became a widow ; since which, learn- 
ing of the Indians the virtue of roots and herbs, she 
6 



52 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

became a noted doctress, and was famous in all this new 
country for her skill. After enjoying life for nearly a 
full century, she died, leaving her name in the memory of 
many pleasantly cherished ; and the history of a vast 
rock, that long ago tumbled down from the mountains, 
bears the name " Granny Stalbird's Rock." One time, 
while passing on her professional duties through the 
Notch, she was overtaken by a terrible storm ; and dark- 
ness coming on, with torrents of water from the clouds, 
that swelled to a fearful height the wild mountain streams, 
she sought shelter under this rock, and laid there through 
a sleepless night, with the doleful music of water, wind 
and wolves, around her. The habits of this useful old 
doctress were quite masculine. On foot, or astride of an 
old horse, she might commonly be seen in the road, hast- 
ening from house to house on her errands of mercy. Bad 
travelling and severe storms, were never insurmountable 
barriers in her path of usefulness. To do good to the 
sick was her life ; and her God sustained her for long 
years as a worthy ministering spirit to the afflicted. She 
needs no monument to her memory more lasting than that 
which lives in her deeds. 

STORY OF NANCY'S ROCK AND BROOK. 

On a branch of the Saco, below where the Willey 
House now stands, a girl perished in 1778. Her sad 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 53 

story is worthy of notice here. Nancy came up through 
the Notch with Colonel Whipple, soon after his settle- 
ment, and a hired servant of his gained her affections. 
She learned to place in his fair promises all the confidence 
of her guiltless heart, and, long cherished as a true friend, 
the wretch, having moulded her affections completely to 
his purpose, agreed to go to Portsmouth and be married. 
They first went to Lancaster, to make necessary prepara- 
tions for their intended journey through the wilderness. 
She trusted her lover with the money the colonel had paid 
her for two years' service, and, false to the common feel- 
ings of humanity, he left her, and hastened away on his 
long journey. There was then no road, and a dense wil- 
derness, thirty miles to the first settlement below the 
Notch, with only a hunter's path, marked by spotted trees, 
was to be passed ; but Nancy, when aware of her lover's 
treachery, resolved to follow, at the hazard of life. There 
was a light snow upon the ground and trees, so that, when 
she got back to the Colonel's, she was thoroughly drenched, 
and the cold winds of autumn had chilled her. In vain 
her friends there tried to dissuade her from following ; 
but persuaded by her determination that her false one 
would camp at the Notch that night, she thought by 
travelling without rest she might overtake him there. All 
night she wandered, and when morning came she reached 
the spot where the ashes of his camp-fire were yet warm; 



54 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

but he was gone, and in vain, with benumbed hands, she 
tried to rekindle the fire. Wet, cold and hungry, and 
excessively wearied by over-exertion, she still clung to the 
false shadow of a hope that lived in her heart, and made 
one more desperate effort to — she knew not what. 

That branch of the Saco, in that lonely mountain gorge, 
sings a song that never ends ; and by it is a rock that 
stands as a wasteless monument, silently defying time and 
storms. These bear the respective names " Nancy's Rock 
and Brook," and here her body was found, with her head 
resting upon her hand and cane. Fearing for her safety, 
as she did not return, her friends followed her the next 
morning, and found her frozen stiff. The lover of this 
unhappy girl heard of her horrible death, and, smitten by 
conscience, became insane, and after a few weeks died a 
raving madman. This is a concise sketch, as told me by 
some who, knowing the above facts, yet live to bear record 
that my description is true. 

Her tragic fate, though horrid to relate. 
Shows how true love controls a woman's fate. 

The first goods brought up the Notch was a barrel of 
rum, which was given to Captain Rosbrook, by a mer- 
chant of Portland, on condition he would get it up through 
the Notch. The captain made record, that after crossing 
the Saco river twenty-two times, with a horse and two 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 55 

poles, and several men, he succeeded in getting as much 
of the rum up as was not icsed in the enterprise. 

First produce carried down through the Notch was a* 
barrel of tobacco, raised in Lancaster, by one Titus O. 
Brown. Thus, we see, rum and tobacco ranked here, 
where, among many good people of olden times, they were 
considered absolutely necessary, as first. But, thanks 
be to reformers, may the day not be far distant when an 
intemperate use of either shall be looked upon by the 
public, under the influence of moral persuasion, a* an 
evil to be ranked in the same light with the follies of 
witchcraft ! 

FIRST HOUSE IN THE NOTCH. 

The Willey House is the oldest building erected in the 
Notch. This was built in the year 1793, by a Mr. Davis, 
to accommodate the unfortunate storm-bound traveller, 
who, from curiosity, or on business, might dare the dangers 
of this wild pass. Then a little grassy meadow stretched 
along the bank of the Saco ; tall rock-maples, and a tower- 
ing mountain barrier, rose in the background from this 
little home of the pilgrim. How like a cool shadow of a 
great rock was this retreat among the frowning crags ! 
But the thundering avalanche came, and, since August 28th, 
1826, the spirit of desolation has brooded over that fated 
spot. How lonely there is the dirge of the high wind, m 
6* 



56 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

it sweeps down that solitary chasm ; and the wail of the 
sunset breeze, with the loud requiem of the on-rushing 
hurricane, is most mournful, for human bones are there 
palled in an avalanche's ruins.' 

AVALANCHES OF THE MOUNTAIN. 

Betimes around these " gray old piles of eternity " rise 
heavy black clouds from the four points of heaven, that 
shroud all " tip-top " in the darkness of night, and cast 
gloomy shadows on the deep, wild gorges below. Then the 
invisible genius of storms loosens the howling winds from 
their secret caverns, down comes the outpouring tornado, 
the mountain shakes beneath the tramp of the on-rushing 
tempest, and the rough rocks smoke by the violence of 
the merciless elements. It is fearful, then, to be high 
among the rocks, with the roaring hurricane's breath, 
wildly rushing clouds, heavy thunder-peals, and vivid 
lightning-flash, mingled in one overwhelming discord 
around. Then mighty piles of rocks, and acres of forest 
growth, roll down the mountain side, new streams burst 
out among the rocks, and thus have these famous peaks 
become deeply marked by the desolating track of the 
thundering avalanche. Wide over the valleys below scat- 
ter the ruins, like the eruption of a volcano ; and loud 
reverberations among the echoing cliffs, move away like 
distant thunder. These land-slides generally start near 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 57 

the upper region of scrub vegetation, and, deepening and 
widening as they rush down, carry with them the forest 
growth, huge rocks, and all the loose earth, even to the 
bare granite ; and thus, in some remarkable storms, thou- 
sands of acres are made desolate, with a thundering noise, 
like that heard when an earthquake lifts for deliverance. 
Tourists, on all sides of these mountains, must have 
noticed long scars, like wide roads, reaching down to the 
lowlands, that curiously contrast, by their yellow or red- 
dish hues, with the dark, evergreen growth through which 
they sweep. These are the paths of avalanches. 

ORIGIN OF INDIAN FIRE-WORSHIP. 

Doubtless the profound veneration which has ever for 
these old towering piles prevailed among the Indians 
originated, in part, from these terrible visitations that 
have here at times shook the foundation of this wild 
region. The gleam of the lightning flying from cliflf to 
cliff, the voice of the thunder speaking from the black 
cloud, and the dire confusion of the desolating avalanche, 
all told of the Great Spirit, to whose almighty power 
they offered sacrifice with reverence. From the tempest- 
clouds of Agiochook, for the red hunter, had been sent 
down fire that shivered the tall pine of the cold, shadowy 
valley of Amonoosuc ; and by it he learned to cook his 
moose-meat, and warm his wearied limbs. From this 



58 HISTORICAL RELICS OP 

gift of fire from the clouds grew up with the tribes of the 
northern wilderness, according to the imaginative tradi- 
tionary lore of old, the celebrated fire-dance, fire-worship, 
and sacrifice of game to fire. 

DESTRUCTION OF THE WILLEY FAMILY. 

Some few instances are on record, and others live in 
tradition, of destruction of human life, as, also, of wonder- 
ful escapes from death, among these mountains, bj the 
resistless avalanche. The following account, by its start- 
ling details, first attracts our notice. Some time in June 
— before the great " slide " in August, 1826 — there came 
a great storm, and the old veteran, Abel Crawford, coming 
down the Notch, noticed the trees slipping down, standing 
upright, and, as he was passing Mr. Willey's, he called 
and informed him of the wonderful fact. Immediately, 
in a less exposed place, Mr. Willey prepared a shelter to 
which to flee in case of immediate danger ; and in the 
night of August 28th, that year, he was, with his family, 
awakened by the thundering crash of the coming avalanche. 
Attempting to escape, that family, nine in number, rushed 
from the house, and were overtaken and buried alive 
under a vast pile of rocks, earth, trees, and water. By 
a remarkable circumstance, the house remained uninjured, 
as the slide divided about four rods back of the house 
(against a high flat rock), and came down on either side, 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 59 

with overwhelming power. The little meadow there, on 
the Saco, was entirely destroyed, and to this day wears 
a desert aspect. A commodious two-story hotel has been 
erected near this spot, and thousands each season come to 
stand upon the rock that saved that famous old Willey 
H(nise, by turning the force of the thundering avalanche 
aside. There is, near by, a rude mound of small stones, 
piled up by strangers, who have visited this spot to see 
where three children yet sleep in death, beneath the ruins 
of that fearful night. 

NAMES OF THAT FAMILY. 

Samuel Willey, jr., aged 38. 
Polly L. Willey, " 35. 
Eliza Ann, " 13. 

Jeremiah L., " 11. 

Martha G., " 9. 

Two first, parents ; five next, children ; two last, hired 
men. The three first and three last have been found, and 
the other three are where the avalanche overtook them 
that fatal hour. 

WONDERFUL ESCAPES. 

In Moore's Hist Col. of N. H., vol. iii., p. 226, is found 
the description of a remarkable escape from death, one 
dark and rainy night, on the side of Mt. Washington. 



Elbridge G-., 


aged 7. 


Sally, 


" 5. 


David Nickerson, 


" 21. 


David Allen, 


« 37. 



fK) HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

This we will style The Destruction of Ethan's Cabin. The 
description is as follows : " We were on the north-westerly 
side of Mt. Washington, August 27th, 1826, about two 
miles from the top. The storm continued to increase; 
the very summit seemed to shake in the tempest, and an 
involuntary dread touched our hearts, as the noise of the 
hurricane grew louder, and sudden gusts swept over us, 
and dashed down streams of water upon our frail cabin. 
Our fire was put out, and, fearing lest delay might be 
death, we hastened down the mountain, and crossed the 
Araonoosuc as best we could, which stream was now roar- 
ing along like a tremendous cataract. The next morning 
sun shone out, and we beheld where one slide had the 
appearance of passing directly over where we had the 
night before camped." Ethan in his journal says : " God 
only knows what must have been their fortune, had they 
remained; and truly thankful they seemed to be for 
their escape. It seemed really a providential thing their 
being saved. My cabin^ where they were stopping, was 
destroyed, and the old iron chest and blankets were all 
swept away and buried, except a few tattered pieces, of 
blankets that caught on bushes down the river. All else 
was lost." 

ORIGIN OF PEABODY RIVER. 

A description of another wonderful escape is found in 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 61 

Rev. H. White's History of New England, page 827 
♦' The father of Oliver Peabody, who resided at Andover 
Mass., in one of his excursions into New Hampshire niet 
with an adventure which has connected his name with the 
geography of the country, and which, for that reason, as 
well as its singularity, may, perhaps, with propriety, be 
mentioned here. He was passing a night in the cabin of 
an Indian, situated on the height between the Saco and 
the Androscoggin rivers. The inmates of this rude dwell- 
ing were awakened in the course of the night by a loud 
noise, and had scarcely time to escape, before the hut was 
swept away by a torrent of water rushing impetuously 
down the hill. On reconnoitring the spot, they found 
that this torrent had burst out suddenly from a place 
where there was no spring before." This is supposed to 
date back to the origin of the branch of Peabody river, 
that runs in front of the Grlen House, and hence came its 
name. 

DARBY FIELD'S SECOND VISIT. 

This extravagant description, by one who occupies a 
prominent place as an early explorer, is deemed worthy 
of record as a curiosity. It might as properly have been 
noticed in connection with his first visit. Had it then 
been in my possession, there it would have appeared ; but 
my manuscript, up to this page, now being in proof, hera 



02 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

let it be recorded as a worthy relic, rescued by accident 
from the antiquarian collection of the Massachusetts His- 
torical Society. In a worm-eaten old edition of Win- 
throp's History, vol. ii., page 107, is found the following • 

" In his second visit in 1642, Darby Field went up the 
Saco in birch canoes with his party. He found 10 falls 
on that river to stop boats, and there were thousands of 
acres of rich meadow to Pegwagget,* an Indian town. He 
then went up a hill 30 miles in woody land, and 8 miles 
up shattered rocks, without tree or grass. The top is 3 
or 4 miles over, all shattered stone, and on one end is 
another rock about a mile high, with an acre on top. At 
the top of the plain rises 4 great rivers, at the first issue 
having as much water as will drive a mill. Connecticut 
from 2 heads at the N. W. and S. W., Saco on the S. E., 
Amascoggin at the N. E., and Kennebec at the N. by E." 

DEATH OF THE ENGLISH BARONET. 
From all the hardships of adventurous life among 
these mountains, but one instance of rashness proving 
fatal has been known of late years. Many fancy that 
there is much danger attendant upon a visit to this 
famous place ; but the fact that no serious injury has been 
iuffered by the thousands who here climb to the clouds, 

♦ Conway. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 63 

with the exception of this solitary case, ought to mak« 
assurance double, that, with necessary prudence, danger 
here is trifling. Much credit is due to the faithful man- 
agement of the experienced guides who are employed, for 
the benefit of company, at the hotels around the moun- 
tains. 

In the autumn of 1851, late in October, a young Eng- 
lish baronet visited the White Mountain Notch, and, 
notwithstanding snow was on all the bald peaks above, he 
determined to visit the top of Mount Washington. He 
could not be dissuaded from the rash attempt ; go hf would. 
A guide went with him to the top of Mount Clinton from 
Gibbs', and, finding the snow deep, and the wind rough and 
wintry, the experience of the guide warned his better 
judgment that it was highly imprudent to go further ; and, 
having said all he could to discourage going forward, he 
turned back, supposing the Englishman would soon follow. 
Night came on, but no Englishman, and early the next 
morning a party followed. They tracked him to the top 
rock of Mount Washington, to near where the north end 
of the Tiptop House now stands. Fabyan's house was 
then standing, and being westerly in full view down the 
Amonoosuc valley, he started down apparently with the 
calculation to reach that point. Down where D. Field, 
in his first visit, said, ^' There was such a precipice as we 
S€uld scarcely discern the bottom^'' they followed his trail, 
7 



64 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

Tbej found where he fell many times, and at last marks 
of blood were on the snow, and from thence he appeared 
to drag himself along. In the valley of the Amonoosuo 
they found his body, mangled, and nearly naked. He was 
lying on his face in a little stream. In the remains of 
his clothing were found thirty dollars in gold, and a large 
check, payable in New York city. 

DEATH-LEAP OF THE MOOSE AND DOG. 
On an eastern spur of the White Mountains is a beetling 
crag, down which a hunter once drove a moose, and his 
dog, pressing eagerly on the track of his intended victim, 
followed, and both were mingled in one mangled mass of 
bones, flesh, and blood. There is a tradition of a man 
who during the early survey of the township of Shelburne 
was hired to climb that ledge over which the moose and 
dog leaped, and his reward was to be the best lot of 
land in the township. He succeeded in accomplishing the 
daring feat, and the object of his hire has since, by the 
nerve that caused him to not look back or falter in the 
attempt, become a pleasant home for a second generation 
of his enterprising name. 

INDIAN EXILE, PEALSUCEP. 

A sun's journey up the Androscoggin from its mouth, 
in a wild glen, by the shore of a little lake that was curi- 



THE WHrrS MOUNTAINS. 6t> 

ously surrounded by a fanciful setting of evergreen ver- 
dure^ stood the wigwam of a young hunter. His name 
was Pealsucep, and a pretty young squaw was the light 
of his rude home. They were happy together, for the 
Great Spirit had smiled upon their love, and given them- 
a son, a bright-eyed little boy, who filled the hearts of 
his parents with unclouded hope. When he walked upon 
the lake shore, and picked curious stones, and danced 
merrily among the wild-flowers, it showed the fulness of 
his youthful joy to their hearts, and they were happy. 
One day, when the hunter was away to the chase on the 
hills, a pale-faced stranger came to his cabin, treated his 
squaw rudely, and in pretended sport gave his boy a toss 
out into the lake to see him swim ashorQ. The little 
fellow struggled manfully, and regained the shore amid 
the shouts of the pale-faced sailor, who then offered the 
squaw drink from a bottle, and departed. Pealsucep 
returned, and the little lad soon after grew sick, and, linger- 
ing three days, died. The squaw told the story of the 
pale-face, to which the hunter listened silently, with down- 
cast look. He went often to the grave of his little boy, 
and made fit offering there, that his journey might be 
swift and bright beyond the sunset. But from this time 
there was a black cloud upon the path of Pealsucep ; the 
cruel fire of jealousy was kindled with undying rage in 
the deep feelings of his spirit, and in vain did his guiltleM 



66 HISTORICAL RELICS OP 

squaw declare her innocence. Like a tender flower that 
nestles for protection against wind and storms in the shade 
of some defiant mountain pine, she felt her support was 
gone ; a blight came over her hopes, and she died. 
Silently and tearfully Pealsucep laid her by the side of 
her little boy. Two moons passed away ; his tribe became 
indignant, called a council, and the gray-headed old chief 
sent for Pealsucep, and said : " You have sent your squaw 
away before the Great Spirit called her. You are a swift 
hunter and brave ; but never make a foot-mark among the 
hunters of your tribe after to-morrow's sun, unless you 
take the cripple that lives by the river for your squaw." 
Pealsucep looked upon the cripple, shook his head, and 
ere sunset had gathered a pile of pine-knots near his cabin 
door. When darkness that night came down upon the lone 
wilderness, he kindled his knot-pile, and by its light laid 
upon it the bodies of his squaw and son, and, leaving them 
there to consume, bounded away to the gloom of the thick 
woods, filling the night with fearful shrieks of anguish. 
With the morning light he returned. His hunting-dress 
was in tatters, his hair strangely tangled, and, silently 
gathering the ashes of those he once loved int« a rude 
bark-box, up towards the mountain he turned his lone 
steps, and made for himself a new path in the wilderness. 
Tradition says that upon a foaming stream, in the shadow 
of the ** Great Spirit's " home, the ashes of that squa\i 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 67 

and her boy now repose, with a rude stone pile to mark 
the spot. What of Pealsucep ? He made a vow ; and, if 
tradition be true, the Great Spirit heard it. He dared 
His displeasure ; and, high up among the clouds, breathed 
a promise to the Invisible Injluence of storms ; and most 
faithfully a whisper came to his spirit. Deathless hate 
and untiring revenge against his tribe and the pale-faces 
were the burden of his wishes. For years he appeared to 
be the incarnate embodiment of a destroying genius, that 
walked in the wind, and silently speeded the arrow of 
death on its fatal mission, till his tribe dwindled away, 
and the pale-faces abandoned their settlement at the 
mouth of the Kennebec. By tradition he was instrumental 
in destroying the war-party at Lewiston Falls, by a false 
light, set, as they supposed, by their runners who went 
forward to prepare camping-ground. This light, instead 
of being set at the head of the falls, was set down below ; 
and, coming down the river after dark, taking the light as 
guide for turning their canoes ashore, all went down, and 
perished. At a certain block-house he shot several senti- 
nels, and at last was himself wounded, by the stratagem 
of a sentry at that post. He this time crawled away to 
the river bank, floated across, and, filling his wound with 
moss, lived for a long time on beech-leaves and roots, and. 
recovered. He took several prisoners, for which he re- 
ceived of the Jesuits a bounty ; and among others there was 
7* 



05 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

a little girl by the name of Mary Crager, whose fate adds 
a curious page to this list of mountain relics. This Indian, 
according to tradition, once found, while climbing a spur 
of these mountains, a quantity o^Jine silver ore. He was 
scrambling up a steep ledge, where, to facilitate his 
ascent, he took hold of a bush that came up by the roots, 
revealing to his wondering gaze hanging pieces of ore that 
appeared to have oozed out in its richness from the 
crevices of the cliflF. This Indian in 1779 was very old 
and feeble ; his great age made him quite harmless, and 
he lived in a shadow of the Great Spirit's home; and 
there his bones now moulder, by a rushing mountain 
stream, that sings an endless song for three — the little 
Indian boy, his mother, and old Pealsucep, the exile. 

WHITE-MOUNTAIN HERMIT. 
Thomas Crager was the first white man who ever dwelt 
near the White Mountains. He lived at a time so unfor- 
tunate that law supposed if a person could not swim, when 
arrested, they could send their spirit into the body of some 
neighbor's cat^ and walk the night doing mischief. Ac- 
cordingly his wife was executed as a witch ; and this sad 
event bowed his spirit low in the shadow of grief. But 
one little ray of hope beamed through the night of his 
■oul ; this was his love for his motherless little girl. One 
evening, when a number of little children were at plaj 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 69 

near a wood, suddenly the cry arose that an Indian had 
carried off little Mary Crager. Nerved by the spirit of 
desperation, the last tie binding this unfortunate man to 
civilized life was now severed; and, equipped for the chase, 
he shaped his course for the unpathed wilderness. Near 
the White Mountains he came to an Indian village, but, 
failing to find the object of his search there, he took 
advantage of the native superstition existing among the 
red hunters of that wild region, and went up to dwell 
among the rocks, where, undisturbed, he for a long time 
lived, to savage fancy, as an adopted son of the Great 
Spirit. Unannoyed by savage neighbors, fish were plenty, 
abundance of game lived on every wooded steep and shady 
glen, and in his habitation of solitude he was lord of the 
realm he trod. The crystal waters and pure air of the 
mountains gave him health and strength ; and as years 
rolled away, void of the exciting passions of busy life, he 
grew old slowly, for a glimmering hope yet bound him to 
earth. In his intercourse with his red neighbors, he was 
.respected on account of his home, being, like an eagle's, 
perched among the rolling clouds ; and, having learned 
that a little pale flower had long been in the possession of a 
gray-headed old Indian, who made his dwelling-place 
alone, distant from his tribe, he sought for him, and found 
what strengthened his fears. He found, in the possession 
of this Indian, a piece of what he knew to be the dress of 



70 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

his little girl, the evening she was stolen away. The 
Indian was now very old and feeble, and, raising his 
trembling hand when Crager came into his presence, the 
flash of vengeance rekindled his dim eyes, and it was a long 
time ere he could so calm his fears as to gain from him 
in broken English the sought-for information. In the end 
he learned from the Indian, by promising to instruct him 
in the use of a gun, that the child he sought was sold to 
the Jesuits, on a big river towards the sunrise, and that now 
she was a tall woman, if living. It is su£&cient for the 
purpose of these pages* that, after a series of curious 
adventures, Crager succeeded in finding his daughter, 
among the eastern Indians of the Abnakis tribe, married, 
and living like a native squaw. He found also in the 
possession of old Pealsucep specimens of silver, and 
learned from him the tradition referred to in our notice of 
the exile ; and, by making a solemn promise to bury his 
remains, when dead, by the side of his squaw and boy, he 
received a rude description of the locality of that mine. 
But to this day the world, perchance, is no richer, save in 
fancy, for the tin, and lead, and silver, with which these 
mountains abound. Perchance more silver may some day 
be made by working the tin veins of Jackson, and the lead 

* In a forthcoming edition of The Indian Traditions an© 
Legends of Agiochook, this tradition and its details will appear, 
perchance. — Author. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 71 

mines of Shelborne, than can be realized by magic appli- 
cation for hidden treasures and silver mines, 

WHITI^-MOUNTAIN HOTELS. 

The world-wide reputation of these mountains, gained 
since they were first called " Chrystal Hills" in 1631, 
yearly calls to their airy heights and shaded sylvan retreats 
thousands from all parts of the world, that in this moun- 
tain land they may for a season shake off the perplexities 
of business life, and freely receive the invigorating influ- 
ence of health and comfort. For the accommodation of 
these numerous visitors, mammoth hotels have been 
erected in the most attractive localities ; and, being man- 
aged on the most approved city style, the " Alpine 
House," at Gorham Station " Thompson's, Glen House" 
"Gibbs' Notch House,'' and ''The Wkite-Mou?itain 
Hotise,'' give satisfactory evidence of their deserved popu- 
larity by the liberal patronage seasonably bestowed upon 
each. Within a pleasant drive of the base of these 
mountains are delightful villages (Conway, on the Saco ; 
Gorham, on the Androscoggin ; Lancaster, on the Connect- 
icut, and Whitefield, near the Amonoosuc), where the 
free circulation of fresh mountain air, and pure water, 
foaming cold from icy indentations among snowy cliffs, 
afford to all who come and tarry a pleasant and healthful 



72 HISTORICAL RELICS OP 

contrast to the sickly, pent-up city street, where floats • 
hot atmosphere of pestilence and death. 

DWELLING-PLACE IN THE CLOUDS. 

The possibility of erecting a permanent summer home 
for man on the top crag of Mount Washington, was 
for a long time looked upon with serious doubt, and con- 
sidered only a fit subject of speculation for the visionary. 

The rude stone cabin, in our reference to " The White- 
Mountain Giant,'' being the first shelter wherein mortals 
could on this bleak pile of rocks find an artificial resting- 
place, was ever by the winter storms rendered a most 
desolate object, though sheltered behind a bold crag. The 
shingle roof, split down in the woods on the mountain 
side and packed up on the backs of men, was scattered to 
the four winds. The levers of the frost, and the wild 
hurricane, tumbled down the thick stone walls ; and every 
spring a roofless heap of ruins, with a rusty old stove, and 
the iron chest, was left to tell a sad story of the invisible 
power that over these towering summits stretches the arm 
of destruction. 

NAZRO'S TEMPLE VISION. 

A peculiar genius, in 1850, obtained a supposed free- 
toil title to the top of Mount Washington, with all th« 
privileges and appurtenances to the same belon£;ing ; and 



THE WHITE MOXJNTAINS. 73 

erecting gateways upon all the bridle-paths leading up to 
" the peaks in the clouds,'^ exacted one dollar as toll-fee 
from each and every person who ascended. He also 
published a flaming proclamation in the papers of the day, 
of which this is a true copy : 

PROCLAMATION. 

FOURTH OF JULY ON 

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 

There will be a solemn congregation upon TRINITY 
HEIGHT, or Summit of Mount Washington, on the 
Fourth Day of July, a. d. 1851, and 1st year of the 
Theocracy, or Jewish Christianity, to dedicate to the 
coming of the Ancient of Days, in the glory of His King- 
dom, and to the marriage of the Lamb ; and the literal 
organization in this generation of the Christian or purple 
and royal Democracy (let no man profane that name !), 
or the thousand thousands, and ten thousand times ten 
thousand of the people of the Saints of the most high 
God of every nation and Denomination into the great- 
ness of God's kingdom and dominion under the whole 
heavens ; and there will be a contribution for this purpose 
from all who are willing, in the beauty of holiness, from 
the dawn of that day. 

JOHN COFFIN NAZRO, 

Jsrad of Jerusalem, 



74 HISTORICAL REMCS OF 

The appointed fourth of July was as dark and rainj as 
any, perhaps, that ever shrouded Mount Washington in 
wildly-flying clouds; and Nazro, meeting with strong 
opposition in toll-gathering, relinquished his temple-build- 
ing designs, and, throwing away his gate-keys to the en- 
trance of this mighty altar, retired to United States ser- 
vice, where, perchance, he may be now plotting the way 
to fortune among the clouds. 

SUMMIT HOUSE ON MOUNT WASHINGTON 

The matter-of-fact enterprise of two thorough-going 
Yankees, J. S. Hall and L. M. Rosebrook, came to the 
task in 1852, and the above-named house was erected 
within a few feet of the highest rock of Mount Washing- 
ton. (See right-hand house in cut on first page.) This 
structure is of heavy stones, blasted with powder from 
the mighty paramid on which it stands ; and it is twenty- 
four feet by sixty-four feet, firmly secured to its everlast- 
ing foundation by cement, heavy iron bolts ; and over the 
roof are tightened four strong cables. In opposition to 
the prophecies of the unbelieving, this house stood the 
storms of winter; and the next summer another house 
was stone-built, and called the 

TIP-TOP HOUSE. 
This house was erected by Samuel F Spaulding & Co^ 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 7$' 

and cement and iron rods hold this monument of daring 
enterprise, in proud defiance of wind and storm, to the 
most bleak top crag of Mount Washington. This house 
is twenty-eight feet wide by eighty-four feet long ; and 
has a deck-roof, whereon the visitor may stand and look 
down six thousand two hundred and eighty-five feet, on to 
the vast map spread on every side at his feet. (On the 
first page of this book this house is seen in the engraving, 
with a telescope, and three visitors on its roof, under a 
flag of our country.) 

These two houses are unitedly managed by a company 
of hardy mountaineers, who spare no pains to make this 
famous resort a true home to the admiring stranger, and 
a pleasant resting-place to the travel-worn pilgrim. All 
who seek health and pleasure in this pure mountain cli- 
mate, or a gratification of curiosity for the wonderful in 
sublime scenery, will find here ample accommodations for 
their comfort, both day and night. The changing scenes 
and reflections connected with every sunset and sunrise, 
enjoyed from this elevation, are remarkable beyond descrip- 
tion. Here too sunlight plays upon the bald rocks, while 
black storms, armed with wind and thunder, move like the 
shadows of destroying giants in the habitated regions 
below. Here the moon, with its starry host, sends down 
its solemn light upon the gray crags, kindling into a fiery 
glow a hundred lakes, ponds, rivers, and dashing moun- 
8 



76 HISTORICAL RELICS OP 

tain streams, and strangely enlivening every shady glen 
with flitting lights and shades for the sombre world. Never 
did Seer from the land of the pyramids, or Chaldean star- 
gazer, study the heavens from an observatory like this. 
Ye who would enjoy the sports of stream and forest, come 
to these mountains ! Ye who delight to behold the works 
of nature in their most sublime flights, come to these 
mountains ' Ye who have a love for novelty and a desire 
for true pleasure, come and behold God's wisdom dis- 
played in the bold outlines of this gigantic monument of 
his almighty power ! Here the undying features of grand- 
eur were moulded in imperishable materials by his hand ! 

MOUNT WASHINGTON CARRIAGE-ROAD. 

A company, known as the Mount Washington Carriage- 
Road Company, was chartered in June, 1853, by the Legis- 
lature of New Hampshire, with a capital-stock of fifty 
vhousand dollars. The first day of September, 1853, this 
company was organized at the Alpine House, Gorhara, 
and the following board of directors was chosen : D. 0. 
Macomber, of New York ; John M. Woods, R. J. Robin- 
son, and Abner Lowell, of Portland ; J. R. Hitchcock and 
James Dingly, of Gorham; and Barker Burbank, of 
Shelborne. D. 0. Macomber was chosen president ; J 
R, Lufkin, secretary. This road is to be sixteen feet 
wide, macadamized, and have a protection-wall, three 



TME WHITE MOUNTAINS. 77 

feet high in dangerous places. A route has been thor- 
oughly surveyed and located, with no greater rise than 
that of one foot to eight, to the top of Mount Washington, 
from Thompson's Glen House. The distance by this road 
varies but little from eight miles, and it is now — June, 
1855 — in rapid progress towards completion, under the 
contract of Messrs. Rich & Myers. When, a carriage can 
run to the top of Mount Washington, who can prophesy 
what a bright new era will dawn upon White-Mountain 
life ? The plan of this road reflects great credit upon the 
enterprise of the president, D. 0. Macomber. The part 
now located is so calculated as to bring in plain prospect 
the most varied and wild scenery of the eastern side ; and 
a survey is this season anticipated, by which the road will 
be located somewhere down the western side ; thus com- 
pleting a carriage-fbute that for novelty, and unparalleled 
wonder-exciting location, will not in the western world 
have an equal. 



78 THE tourist's guide to the 

WHITE MOUNTAINS. OBJECTS OF INTEREST. 

On the eastern side, as the traveller apptoaches this 
Alpine region, he will naturally inquire for the objects 
of interest to ■which he wishes to direct his attention. 
After booking his name for a ride to the summit in 
the morning, from the Glen House he will pass down 
southerly along the public road, that connects the east- 
ern and western travel around these mountains. Ro- 
mantic scenery in its* most primitive form everywhere 
greets attention. A dark old forest rock, crumbled 
from frowning crags ; unpathed recesses, alone haunted 
by wild beasts; and deep, wild gorges filled with the 
thunder-rush of wasteless mountain streams, — pass like 
dream-changes before the admirer's vision ; and about 
three miles from the Glen brings us to 

THE CRYSTAL CASCADE. 

This is situated on the right hand, in a dark ravine 
about a hundre.d rods from the road, and the whole 
height of the falls is nearly a hundred feet. This 
fall is broken in its -course by projecting rocks, which, 
scatter the water-drops in showers of spray, like 
liquid silver, upon the surrounding foliage. Over other 
indentations of the cliff the water courses down green 



■WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 79 

beds of moss, among stunted trees that struggle for 
existence in the scanty soil of the fissures and seams 
of splintered crags. This stream is a tributary sent 
down froni the wild gorges on the southerly side 
of Mt. Washington. Should the adventurous tourist 
choose this route to the summit, he may find the way 
rugged and wild; but the change of scenery along 
the highly romantic gorge will well repay the extra 
tax upon time and nerve. In one place the 

HERMIT'S LAKE, 

set like a rich gem in its fanciful frame-work of 
changeless evergreen, appears ; and, stopping to en- 
joy the prospect, the idea of overwhelming wonder 
rushes upon our spirit in this solitary spot. Across 
this little lake, high up among the rolling clouds, 
frowns Mt. Washington, a view of which from this 
point strangely contrasts with the sparkling rush of 
noisy water, and the evergreen freshness of surround- 
ing woods. To the westward rises the craggy top of 
Mt. Monroe ; and upon all sides, except the outlet 
through this little lake, known as The Crystal Stream^ 
appear high towering cliffs, rendered a picture of deso- 
lation by the deep, wide track of many an avalanche. 
Little spots of verdure, blasted shrubbery, and piles 
of granite fragment appear below, with the long snow- 



80 THE tourist's GUIDE TO THE 

bank and famous snow-arch,* through which runs the 
stream that tumbles from the ragged cUfF above. 
Over all, mark the mighty pile of mountains that 
hangs high in bold relief against the sky, and behold 
the famous 

**FALL OF A THOUSAND STREAMS," 

divided in its descent into silvery streams that in 
number will warrant the above appellation, and you 
have a picture of the Mountain Coliseum here faintly 
referred to; and this also is known as Tuckerman^s 
Ravine. 

Glen Elise Falls are situated a mile below Crystal 
Cascade, and considered an object of quite as much 
interest as that of its rival. It is on the left side of 
ihe road, a few rods off, in a deep, dark ravine on 
Elise River. The water falls in an unbroken sheet 
about eighty feet. On top of the crag from which 
this stream is projected, stands a finely rooted old 
hemlock, that, in defiance to the warring elements, 
stretchef Hs shaggy top out a hundred feet above the 
top of the fall. Up this tree a boy once climbed to 
the very top, in i\\Q presence of a party of visitors, 
and looking down into its fearful vortex of boiling 
water, nearly two hundred feet, seemed perfectly indif- 
* See description of snaw-arch, 15th page. 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 81 

ferent concerning his dangerous position. Descending, 
he was rewarded for this dare-devil feat by an admir- 
ing stranger with a York shilling. " The Lake of the 
Clouds,'' and " Star Lake" set like glittering diamonds 
in rough granite frames, on the indentation between the 
tops of Mt. Washington and Mt. Monroe, will well repay 
the excursionist for a visit to their romantic shores, dis- 
tant from Tip-Top a mile and a half. " The Gulf of 
Mexico " and " Spaulding's Lake,'' are at least worth a 
trip from the Atlantic, from all who would look with 
proud satisfaction upon Nature in her sublimest mood. 
These curiosities are situated near the head of the most 
northerly branch of Peabody River, between Mt. Wash- 
ington and Mt. Clay, and are similar in feature to the 
general outlines of Tuckerman's Ravine. In place, how- 
ever, of seeing another " Fall of a Thousand Streams," 
the tourist must be content with loosing from the over- 
hanging cHff vast boulders, that, smoking and thunder- 
ing down deep in the gorge below, are splintered 
and lost amid the ruins of trees shattered on their down- 
ward trail. This little lake, known in its wild bed as 
" Spaulding's Lake,'' to appearance was formed by a 
slide from Mt. Washington; and very recently another 
slide from the southerly crags of Mt. Adams, has left 
its rusty, iron track, and piled its ruins in wild con- 
fusion, high up within the waters of this lake. On this 
6 



82 THE tourist's guide to the 

pile, as an apology for the name given this solitary 
sheet, may be seen engraved, "J. H. S., 1853." 

Many places of interest are yet, around this gigantic 
pile of peaks, but partially explored. The field is open to 
the spirit of discovery; and, beside the piles of old bones 
found last season in the " burnt district," by Mr. Hall, 
places worthy of note, and more relics interesting to the 
antiquarian, will doubtless yearly be brought to light, till 
these cliffs and gorges, from being an '•^unknown cer- 
tainty^^ become, like a book, thoroughly understood and 
admired. 

On the westerly side of these mountains, the chief 
objects of interest are the Notch (already referred to on 
49th page), the Upper and Lower Falls of the Amo- 
nosoc, Mt. Willard, and the carriage-ride to its summit. 
The wilderness valley stretched over thousands of acres, 
with the old site of the Fabyan stand, open in the 
wilderness, for the traveller's relief, like a desert oasis. 
Here stand upon the " Giant's Grave " (that famed spot), 
where, according to legend, sleeps one of the race which 
lived in the time of the Saurians and Mastodons ! Here 
lift up your voice, discharge the shadow of Ethan's can- 
non, once kept there, blow a tin horn, or fire a pistol, — 
then listen to the vibration of echo, sounding among a 
hundred peaks ! Ere you bid farewell to the scenery 
from this mound, behold the westerly declivities of the 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 83 

Titanic brotherhood of craggy White-Mountain summits, 
stretching along the southern sky, with their dark 
fissures, silvery waterfalls flashing in the sunlight, and 
deep wide tracks, that silently tell where the destroying 
avalanche has been. Around these Inountains are un- 
numbered streams that afford abundant sport for the 
trout-catcher. 

^'The DeviVs Den," up the side of Mt. Willard, seen 
from the notch opposite the Silver Cascade, though as 
yet but imperfectly explored, deserves a passing notice. 
From below it appears like a dark hole in the steep cliff; 
and, though various attempts have been made to explore 
its shadowy secrets, from the day it was first discovered 
by old Abel Crawford till 1850, it remained among the 
unvisited wonders. To F. Leavitt, Esq., belongs the 
credit of succeeding, by means of a rope let down from 
the overhanging rock above, in the accomplishment of the 
daring enterprise of first visiting that spot. Fancy a 
man suspended over a dark gulf more than a thousand 
feet deep, by a rope let down from a ragged crag to a 
dark hole in the mountain, around the entrance of which 
were scattered the skulls and bones of animals, and 
you have a glimmering of the picture. Our hero lost all 
desire to enter that dismal cavern, and, kicking the rope, 
was again drawn up ; and since that time, by his descrip- 
tion, no explorer has been found with sufficient nerve 



84 THE tourist's guide to the 

and curiosity to make a second attempt. As there has 
never been discovered any possible means by which that 
den can be approached by foothold up the rock, and 
as the old Evil One has such daily business with mortal 
affairs, rather than believe that to be his abode, it ap- 
pears more just to conclude that alone there the moun- 
tain eagle finds a solitary home. 

BEABING AND DISTANCES OF WHITE MOUNTAINS. 
Mount "Washington as the centre, from which 



Mount Adams 


is distant 


4 miles, 


N. by e. 


« 


Jefferson 


a 


3 


a 


N. by w. 


a 


Madison 


ii 


5 


a 


N. N. E. 


(( 


Clay 


u 


1 


a 


N. W. 


(( 


Monroe 


a 


1 


a 


s. w. 


<C 


Franklin 


11 


2 


ii 


s. w. 


ii 


Pleasant 


a 


3 


a 


s. w. 


a 


Clinton 


a 


4 


a 


s. w. 



HEIGHT, BEARING, AND DISTANCE 

Of the less important White Mountains, and other mountains 

in the vicinity, from Mount Washington. 

Distance, Bearing. Height, 

Davis* Spur, 2 miles, s. s. e. 5,400 i^Qi. 

Notch Range, 8 " s. w. 4,500 " 

WiUey Mountain, 8 " s. w. 4,400 " 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 85 





Distance. 


Bearing, 


Height. 


Mt. Jackson, 


6 miles 


, s.w. 


4,100 feet. 


Mt. Webster, 


7 


« 


W. N. W. 


4,000 " 


Giant's Stairs, 


8 


<( 


s. 


3,500 « 


Mt. Crawford, 


9 


(( 


s. w. 


3,200 « 


Mt. Moriah, 


7 


a 


N. E. 


4,700 « 


Franconia Mount, 


20 


a 


S. TT. 


5,000 " 


Mt. La Fayette, 


19 


a 


w. s. w. 


5,200 " 


Twin Mountains, 


14 


ii 


w. s. w. 4,700, 5,000 « 


Mt. Carigain, 


U 


a 


s. s. w. 


4,800 « 


Moose-hillock, 


31 


li 


s. w. 


4,600 « 


Saddle Mountain, 


22 


a 


s. s. w. 


4,000 " 


Mt. Kinsman, 


25 


a 


w. s. w. 


4,100 « 


Mt. Cannon, 


20 


li 


w. s. w. 


4,000 « 


Mt. Whiteface, 


24 


a 


s. by w. 


4,100 " 


Chicorua, 


22 


a 


s. by E. 


3,600 « 


Kiarsarge, 


15 


a 


S. E. 


3,400 « 


Double-head, 


11 


a 


S. E. 


3,100 " 



FRANCONIA AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. 

The tourist who would enjoy the whole scenery of this 
land of mountains and valleys must not fail to come or 
go by the way of Franconia. Some of the most prom- 
inent attractions of the vicinity, situated twenty-eight 
miles from the White Mountain Notch, and known by 
the above poetic title, are the " Old Man of the MouyI" 



86 THE tourist's guide to the 

tain'' (immortalized by Hawthorne), '^The Pool,'' ^' The 
Flume," '^Franconia Notch," ^'Mt. Lafayette," ''Ferrin's 
Pond" (the old man's wash-bowl), ''The Basin," ''The 
Cascade," "Mi. Cannon," and "Mt. Eagle" 

THE OLD MAN OF THE MOUNTAIN 

is a profile of the human face, situated on a peak of solid 
rock one thousand feet high, and nearly perpendicular 
from " Ferrin's Pond," known as the " old man's wash- 
bowl." This profile was discovered about forty years 
ago, while a joarty was laying out the road that 
passes it; and a guide-board directs the traveller's at- 
tention thitherward. This likeness is produced by the 
irregular projection of five blocks of granite. Its sem- 
blance is quite lifelike, and is truly a worthy object of 
wonder. Various Indian utensils and relics have been 
found in that vicinity, which inclines to the belief that 
this with the aborigines was an object of superstitious 
homage. A footpath from the Lafayette House leads 
directly over the top of the old man's head, and some- 
times a mortal may be seen standing among the bristly 
hair (bushes) of the old man's foretop. The entire 
height of this profile is sixty feet. 

The Pool is situated midway between the Basin and 
the Flume. It is about a mile from the Flume House, 
in a wild, romantic grot, completely walled in by rocky 
cliffs. 



WHITE IvIO UN TAINS AND FRANCONIA. 87 

The Flume is about a mile from the main road, and 
nearly in front of the Flume House. A footpath through 
the woods leads the visitor to the spot. A wild, moun- 
tain torrent, falling over precipitous crags and loose frag- 
ments, through high walls, between which hangs a vast 
granite boulder, under which the water foams. 

The Basin is a deep excavation in granite, which has 
been formed by the wearing waters of the Pemmasawas- 
set, aided by the action of stones that the stream has 
swept into the cavity. In this Basin is a ledge of rock, 
so worn by the current as to present the form of a leg 
and foot of giant proportions. This is termed the " old 
man's leg.^* 

The Cascade is below the Flume a short distance. 
The rock here, for the distance of six hundred and twenty 
feet, has been polished, by the continual current of the 
stream, to a surface like glass. 

Mount Lafayette and the " great hay-stach,^^ are lofty, 
conical piles of granite, 5,580 feet high, situated to the 
south-westward of the village of Franconia. A footpath 
leads from the Lafayette House to the top, and the view 
from that point is considered but little inferior to the 
prospect from the summit of Mt. Washington. 

Mount Eagle, on which is an eagle's eyry, is fifteen 
hundred feet high, and rises but a few rods from the 
Lafayette House. Echo Lake is about two hundred 



88 THE tourist's guide to the 

rods from this house, and from its shining waters are 
taken many of the nicest kinds of trout. 

The Flume House is, with the Lafayette House, well 
calculated to satisfactorily accommodate all who seek 
pleasure and health in this mountain region ; and, taken 
as a whole, we challenge the territory of our Union, to 
furnish for the Summer tourist a more desirable retreat 
than our own White Mountain and Franconia Scenery. 

LENGTH OF DAYS. 

The days at the summit of Mt. Washington are about 
forty minutes longer than on the ocean level, in the same 
latitude. 

THUNDER-STORMS. 

There were but few thunder-storms that approached 
near to the summit ; the greater part of them passing 
below, and following the deep valley or gulfs that sur- 
round Mt. Washington. But it is a grand sight to be- 
hold a black cloud passing along, almost beneath your 
feet, the lightning playing through it, and the thunder 
rolling and reverberating among the neighboring moun- 
tains, while at the same time the sun is shining brightly 
upon the tops of the mountains. Yet such scenes are 
often witnessed, and they fill the mmd with awe and 
wonder. 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 89 

WHITE MOUNTAIN NAMES FROM OLD RECORD. 

As there is a difference of opinion among map and 
guide makers to these Mountains, in regard to which 
peak is Mt. Adams, and which is Mt. Jefferson, I have 
by dihgent search obtained the original manuscript, con- 
taining the facts which will set all faults in this matter 
right. In my first edition, and also in this on the 23d 
page, may be found the names of the party which 
have the honor of first levelling, from a known height 
below to the top of the different peaks, for the purpose 
of correctly ascertaining the height of these mountains 
(the different summits of which had been named the 
month before). This manuscript was published in J. 
E. Moore's " Historical Collection," in April, 1823, 
vol. i. page 97. I here make a true extract from the 
old copy : — 

" The White Mountains are situated in the northerly 
part of the State of New Hampshire, and nearly in the 
centre of the County of Coos. The latitude of the high- 
est peak is 44° 30' north, or very near it. Every geo- 
graphical writer in this country, and some beyond the 
Atlantic, have noticed these mountains ; and all agree in 
assigning to them a greater altitude than to any in New 
England, if not in the United States. Notwithstanding 
this acknowledged fact, no two authors agree in assigning 



90 THE tourist's GUIDE TO THE 

to the White Mountains the same height. Had the va- 
riation between them been trifling, the public might have 
rested satisfied, or at least have taken the accounts given 
bj them as correct. But, when they diifer in the single 
circumstance of their altitude more than three thousand 
feet, the public curiosity, instead of being gratified, is 
perplexed, and seeks for something approaching to cer- 
tainty. (Difference in height made by different scientific 
calculations, see this book on 12th page.) 

As to the causes of this difference, it is unnecessary 
to inquire. But it is believed to be out of the jDower of 
any person to take the height of mountains correctly, 
especially such as the White Hills, without using a 
spirit or water level. This mode is so long, and gen- 
erally so laborious, that but few persons have had the 
courage to undertake it. These difficulties notwithstand- 
ing, the height of the White Mountains were so taken in 
August, 1820, by John W. Weeks, Charles J. Stuart, 
Richard Eastman, and Adino N^ Brackett. To accom- 
plish this undertaking they spent seven days, and during 
five of them were attended by Amos Legro, Joseph W. 
Brackett, and Edward B. Moore. The whole party 
were from Lancaster.* The altitude of these mountains 
above low water-mark in Connecticut River, near the 

* The party which went up July 31st of the year 1820 have their 
names recorded back on the 23d page of this book. 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 91 

Court-House in Lancaster, with the names of the prin- 
cipal peaks, are given below : . . . . 

Mount Washington rises above the river 5850 feet ; * 
above Austin's (old Whipple place) in Jefferson, 5450 
feet; above Crawford's (now Fabyan stand), 4781 feet: 
this mountain is easily distinguished from the others by 
its superior elevation (it being the southern of the three 
highest peaks), and other marks too apparent to need 
recital. Mount Adams rises above the river 5383 feet, 
and is known by its sharp terminating peak ; Mount 
Jefferson, 5281 feet, and is situated between the two first. 
Mount Madison, known by its being the most eastern 
peak of the range, is above the river 5039 feet. Mount 
Monroe, the first to the southward of Mount Washington, 
rises above the river 4932 feet. Mount Franklin, known 
by its level surface, and being the second southerly of 
Mount Washington, rises above the river 4470 feet. 
Mount Pleasant, or Dome Mount, known by its conical 
shape, and being the third southerly of Mount Washing- 
ton, rises above the river 4339 feet. Blue Pond (now 
called " Lake of the Clouds ") lies at the southern base 
of Mount Washington, and is above the river 4578 feet. 
This is the description of all the peaks that had up to 
this date been named ; and as the names were given by 
those who, only one month after, came again, and labored 

♦ River here 759 feet above the sea. 



92 THE tourist's guide to the 

hard for seven days to establish a table that should ex- 
hibit correctly the height of each peak according to its 
name to all coming time, we must conclude that Mount 
Adams, and not Mount Jefferson, is next in height to 
Mount Washington. On this point Bond's map is wrong, 
though in all other respects it is the most reliable repre- 
sentation of the localities of the different peaks and 
points of note connected with White Mountain scenery 
yet published. 

MOUNT WASHINGTON OBSERVATORY. 
In the spring of 1854, Timothy Estus, of the town of 
Jefferson, erected upon the summit of Mount Washing- 
ton a structure, which he called an observatory. It was 
built 40 feet high, and so arranged, that, by means of a 
rope and gearing, a party of eight could be elevated at a 
time on a platform 40 feet above the natural top rock, for 
50 cents each. This contrivance consisted of four up- 
right posts made of plank bolted together, between which 
were a great number of rods and wooden braces; and 
from four corners of the main frame-work were extended 
iron braces, which made the whole capable of withstand- 
ing the heaviest storms. This observatory cost about six 
hundred dollars, and, after being used part of the first 
season, was abandoned as a total failure. From that 
time till the summer of 1856 it stood; and the wind 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANC ONIA. 93 

howled and whistled and screamed through it, making 
most unearthly music, till it was that season torn down, 
and the wood-work was used for fire-wood. 

RAILROAD TO THE TOP OF MT. WASHINGTON. 

In the June session of 1858, the New Hampshire 
Legislature granted a charter for a railroad to the top 
of Mount Washington and to the top of Mount Lafayette, 
to a man by the name of Sylvester Marsh. That gen- 
tleman has the exclusive privilege of controlling the right 
of constructing such roads, without opposition, any time 
within twenty years of the date of his charter, — only 
on to Mount Washington he has no right to lay a track 
nearer than a fixed distance to any part of the con- 
structed or surveyed route of the new carriage-road from 
the glen, excepting by consent of the owners of the car- 
riage-road charter (see page 76). The carriage-road 
here and there spoken of is the one from the glen, that 
ere this was to have been completed ; but the company 
that was to have built it has failed, and the road has 
been located and about half completed, where it now 
rests, subject to use as a bridle-path, and a splendid 
monument of a failure. Mr. Marsh has got a model 
of his engine made, and calculates to gear the speed 
down to slow motion; and, by means of cog-wheels 
matched into a middle cog-rail, he expects to run a train 



94 THE tourist's guide to the 

of cars up to Tip-Top at a speed of three miles an hour. 
There was great wonder when the first horse stood on 
top of Mount Washington ; but what will be the expres- 
sion of the world when the steam-horse puffs his first 
steam-breath from Tip-Top ? The projector calculates 
the expense of his middle cog-rail at $20,000 a mile. 

PLANTS OF THE ALPINE REGIONS OF THE 
WHITE MOUNTAINS. 
Cardamine Bellidifolia, L. ; moist places, Great Gulf. 
Viola Palustris, L. ; moist places. Silene Acaulis, L. ; 
rare. Arenaria Groenlandica, Spreng. Alchemilla Al- 
pina, L. ; (according to Pursh, but not found since). 
Sibbaldia Procumbens, L. ; Tuckerman's Ravine ; rare. 
Dryas Integrifolia, Vahl. ; (according to Pursh). Geura 
Peckii, Pursh. Potentilla Minima; Hailer. P. Tri- 
dentata, L. ; Rubus Chamoemorus, L. ; Mount Clinton. 
Epilobium Alpinum, L. ; moist places. Saxifraga Riv- 
ularis, L. ; moist places, Great Gulf. Solidago Virga 
Aurea, L. Gnaphalium Supinum, Vill. ; rare. Arnica 
Mollis, Hook ; moist places. Nabalus Nanus, D. C. N. 
Boottii, D. C. Campanula Rotundifolia, L. ; dwarf al- 
pine state. Vacciniun Vitis, Idoea, L. V. Coespitosum, 
Michx. Y. Uliginosum, L. ; Arctostaphylos Alpina, 
Spreng. ; lower summits. Andromeda Hypnoides, L. ; 
Phyllodoce Taxifolia, Salisb. Rhododendron Lapponi- 



WHITE Z^IOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 95 

cum; L. Loiseleuria Decnmbens, Desv. Ledum Lati- 
folium, Ait. Yeronica Alpina, L. Castilleja Septon- 
trionalis, Lindl. Euphrasia Officinalis, L. ; moist places, 
Oakes's Gulf. Rhinanthus Crista Galli, L. ; moist 
places, Oakes's Gulf. Diapensia Lapponica, L. Poly- 
gonum Yiviporum, L. ; moist places. Oxyria Digyna, 
Campd. ; moist places, Great Gulf. Empetrum Ni- 
grum, L. Betula Nana, L. Salix Pliylicifolia, L. ; 
moist places. S. Uva Ursi ; Pursh. S. Repens, L. ; 
moist places. S. Herbacea, L. Luzula Parviflora, 
Desv. L. Arcuata, Mey. L. Spicata, Desv. Juncus 
Trifidus, L. Scirpus Coespitosus, L. Eriophorum Al- 
pinum, L. Carex Scirpoidea, Michx. C. Capitata, L. 
C. Atrata, L. C. Capillaris, L. C. Rigida, Gooden. 
Phleum Alpinum, L. Agrostis Canina, V. Alpina, 
Oakes. Calamagrostis Sylvatica, D. C. Poa Laxa, 
Haenk. Festuca Ovina V. Vivipora; moist places. 
Great Gulf. Aira Atropurpurea, Wahl. Hierochloa 
Alpina, Roem. and Scliult. Lycopodium Selago, L. ; 
L. Annotinum, B. Pungens, Spreng. 

There are many other plants of lower regions which 
also commonly occur in the alpine; so commonly as to 
make a list of them proper, which is now necessarily 
deferred. 

Of forest trees, the Balsam Fir (Abies Balsamoea), 
Marsh ; Eraser's Balsam Fir (Abies Fraseri), Pursh ; 



96 THE tourist's guide to the 

the Yellow Birch (Betula Excelsa, Ait.) ; and the Paper 
Birch (Betula Papyracea, Ait.), — follow the ascent of 
the mountains, till they disappear in minute shrubs. The 
Mountain Alder (Alnus Vividis, D. C.) is another very 
frequent shrub in the higher regions. The Dwarf Rasp- 
berry (Rubus Triflorus), Richards ; the Swamp Goose- 
berry (Ribes Lacustre), Poir. ; the Skunk Currant 
(Ribes Prostratum) L'her ; the Downy-leaved Blueber- 
ry (Vacciniura Canadense) Kalm. ; the common Low 
Blueberry (Yaccinium Pennsylvanicum) Lam. ; and the 
Small Cranberry (Vaccinium Oxycoccus) L., — are 
common fruits of the alpine solitudes. The two species 
of Streptopus ; Veratrum Viride, Ait. ; Kalmia Glauca, 
Ait. ; Linnse Borealis, Gronov. ; Cornus Canadensis, L. 
Thalictrum Cornuti, L. ; Aster Acuminatus, Michx. 
Solidngo Thyrsoidea, Mey. ; Houstonic Coerulea, L. 
Coptis Trifolia, Salisb. j Claytonia Yirginica, L. ; Stella- 
ria Borealis, Bigel., — will all occur to the botanist. A 
dwarf state of Eriophorum Vaginatum, L. ; Carex Li- 
mosa, L. ; C. L-rigua,. Sra. ; C. Caneseens, in the more 
alpine variety, B. ; Alpicola, Wahl., in the higher re- 
gions, and the taller greener state ; Sphoerostachya, 
Tuckerm., in the lower, — are among the Cyperacea. 
And Avena Striata, Michx., and Hierochloa Borealis, 
Roem. and Schult., interesting grapes. And the most 
elevated mountain lakes which have any (other than 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANC ONIA. 97 

cryptogamic) vegetation, are adorned by Nuphar Adve- 
na, Ait., and a species of Sparganium, with long floating 
leaves, which the late Mr. Oakes regarded distinct. This 
is to be taken for only a rough sketch of the botany of 
the highest parts of the White Mountains 

REMARKABLE FEATS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN LIFE. 

A. S. Walker, of Boston, walked up from the Glen 
to the top of Mount Washington, barefooted, July 27, 
1855. 

George N. Dana, of Boston, counted his steps from 
the Glen to the top of Mount Washington, August 2, 
1857. Number of steps, 16,925. 

John Irving, of New York, walked up on time from 
the Glen to the top of Mount Washington, August, 1855, 
in an hour and fifty-seven minutes. 

Miss Cune, of Boston, walked from the Glen up 
through Tuckerman's Ravine, to the top of Mount 
Washington, without a guide, August 26, 1856. She 
was dressed like a Swiss peasant, and wore the same 
shoes, and carried the same steel-pointed staif, that 
she used the year before in crossing the Alps. 

A Miss Prentiss, of Paris, Me., walked up from the 
Glen, August 22, 1856, without a guide, in a snow- 
storm, to the top of Mount Washington. 

The 25th of July, 1855, a lady by the name of 



98 THE toukist's guide to the 

Branch walked from the Glen to Tip-Top and back, 
the same day, on a bet of one thousand dollars. She 
accomplished the feat and danced at the Glen in the 
evening. The cause of the bet was on account of her 
weight being 230 lbs. She was of medium height, and 
the heaviest lady that ever visited Tip-Top. 

Nathaniel Perkins, of Jefferson, run from the top of 
Mount Washington down on the Glen path, — one 
mile, — on a bet of sixty dollars. He bet that sum 
that he could accomplish that feat in eight minutes ; 
and he performed it in six minutes and fifty-seven sec- 
onds. This was in August, 1853. 

A gentleman from New York city walked from the 
Crawford House up to the top of Mount Washington, 
after eleven o'clock at night, and arrived on Tip-Top 
at three in the morning. This was in 1855. 

HEIGHT OF THE DIFFERENT MOUNTAIN HOUSES 
ABOVE THE SEA. 

Tip-Top House, Mount Washington, . 6,285 feet. 

Crawford House, 1,919 « 

Glen House, 1,GI5 " 

Ruins of Fabyan's House, 1,576 " 

Brabrook House, 1,568 " 

Davis House, 978 " 

Alpine House, 802 « 



Distances of the other Mountain Houses from the 
Tip-Top House on Mount Washington: — 

Alpine House, . 15 miles ; 8 by stage, 7, ponies. 
Brabrook. ... 10 " 7 « 3, « 

Fabjan, . . . . 9 *• € " 3, ** 

Cra^-ford, . . . 9 " "• 

Glen, . . . . 7 "' « 

FREIGHT OF BLTLDIXG l^L^TEELyLS TO TIP-TOP. 
The building materials of the Summit House were 
brought op from the Glen side (excepting the stcmes) ; 
and those of tlie Tip-Top House were brought up frcnn 
the northerlr side, towards Randolph- The boards were 
fastened upon the sides oi horses bj small chains. The 
longest timbers, which are twentr-eight feet long, and 
weighed when green four hundred, were brou^^ up 
from four miles below, two at a time, — hitched by one 
end on to the side of a pact-saddle, and the other was 
allowed to drag. The stores were brought up in pieces, 
packed in leather ba^ ; and the chairs and beds, carp^^, 
doors, and dishes, tables, <&<:., were all brought up oa 
horses' backs. The Tip-Top and Summit Houses cost 
seven thousand dollars. 

DEATH OF LIZZIE BOLT.XE. 
Down on tLe Glen path, fonj rods from the top of 



100 THE tourist's GUIDE TO THE 

Mount "Washington, stands a little monument of stone. 
There, on the morning of September 14, 18/35, the body 
of Lizzie Bourne, daughter of E. E. Bourne, Esq., of 
Kennebunk, Me., was found. About two o'clock the 
day before, she had started from the Glen House, accom- 
panied by her uncle, George W. Bourne, and his daugh- 
ter, to walk to the top of Mount Washington. Sunshine 
was around their steps as they walked cheerfully up the 
new carriage-road ; but, on gaining the " Bald Ledge," 
they became enveloped in a dense black cloud that had 
all day been hanging on Mount Washington. Still their 
courage was good ; and they hastened on against the 
strong wind until within nineteen rods of the Summit 
House, where, drenched by the wildly flying mists, and 
having lost her bonnet, poor Lizzie sat down and com- 
plained of Vjeing sleepy. Well knowing that inaction 
would be certain death, thus exposed, and finding Lizzie 
unable to climb higher, the uncle, with the aid of his 
daughter, thought to lead her back a short distance, in 
hopes she might revive and be able to turn and go up. 
She fell down in the path where the mound now stands ; 
and, when sure that she had breathed her last, the uncle 
laid around her a pile of stones to break tlie rude blasts 
of the wind, and with his daughter sought shelter for the 
remainder of that dismal night under a ledge now to be 
seen some six or eight steps, above where her body was 



WHITE MOrXTAINS AKD FRANCOXIA. 101 

found, on the same side of the path. She was about 22 
years of age ; and doubtless her death was occasioned by 
some disease of the heart, hastened by exertion. Her 
mother and an only sister had both died of disease of the 
heart. Poor Lizzie was carried down the mountain on a 
rude bier, by four stout mountaineers. 

ADVESTVRE OF DR. B. L. BALL ON MT. WASH- 
INGTON. 
llie 24th of October, 18o5, Jh. Ball left the Glen 
House to walk up the new carriage-road as far as "77<« 
Ledffe/^ where some workmen were then camping. Pre- 
Tious to starting, he had decided to go to the summit of 
Mt Washington, tiiough the snow was, as he afterwards 
found, about a foot deep, and the Tij:>-Top House was 
shut up for the season. The first evening he walked 
past the camp at the Ledge, and, having climbed up to 
the Bald Rock, he became enveloped in clouds ; and the 
snow being deep, and darkness coming on, he hastened 
back to the camp, and by the kindness of 3ir. Myers 
was made comfortable through the night. Next morning 
after taking a bowl of coffee and a few mouthftils of food, 
he started again to go up to the summit. The snow had 
in part disappeared through the night, but the mountain 
was still covered with clouds ; and, guided by the line of 
Etakes that mark the route for the new carriage-road, he 



102 THE TOUEIST's GUIDE TO THE 

proceeded up to where the snow became deeper, and 
having lost his way, wandered till night. As it became 
dark he retreated down the mountain to a bunch of scrub- 
trees, and, with his umbrella for a shelter, passed a sleep- 
less night, without fire, and with ice upon his clothing, his 
hands and feet frozen ; and even after this he was thor- 
oughly chilled by the high wind, and compelled to wander 
thirty-six hours longer, without food, rest, or shelter ; and 
at last was only barely rescued from the embrace of death 
by the untiring exertions of six hardy mountaineers, who, 
on learning that a gentleman was lost, started in search. 
J. S. Hall was the first to discover the object of their 
search. Much surprise was manifested at finding him 
yet alive, as he had been over sixty hours exposed to 
extreme cold, without food, without rest, and with noth- 
ing but snow and ice to quench his thirst. This is 
the most remarkable record of great exposure in this 
mountain region to be found on any page of White- 
Mountain life. 

THE FATE OF BENJAMIN CHANDLER. 

The 4th of August, 1856, Benjamin Chandler left the 
city of Wilmington, Del., with the intention of visiting 
the New England States. He arrived at the Glen 
House August 7, and late in the afternoon of that day, 
with a little bundle under his arm, started to walk alone 



WHITE MOTINTAINS AXD FRANC ONIA. 103 

to the top of Mt. Washington. That day on Tip-Top 
was rainy, and that evening clouds were hurled wildly 
over the dripping rocks by a cold north-west wind. At. 
dark, or a little after, two ministers, the Rev. S. J. 
Spaulding, of Newburyport, Mass., and Rev. Charles 
Smith, of Boston, an-ived at the Tip-Top House, saying 
as they sat down, dripping wet, " We passed an old gen- 
tleman half way down, and he will hardly get up alone 
to-night." After making certain inquiries, a guide was 
started out from the Tip-Top House, with a lantern, who, 
after going down nearly a mile, lost his light by the high 
wind ; and, after shouting many times as loud as he could 
in vain, he returned wet and cold, whereupon the pro- 
prietor of Tip-Top concluded that the old gentleman must 
have stopped for the night with some road workmen who 
were camping at the " Ledge." Next morning search 
was made ; but, as no information could be obtained, the 
general conclusion was that the old man might have 
turned back and left the mountain. All remained a 
mystery, till, late in September, David Chandler, son of 
the missing man, came in search, and offered a reward of 
five hundred dollars for his recovery. Many reports were 
circulated, and much time spent in search. July 19, 
1857, Ambrose Tower, of New York, came across a 
skeleton, about half a mile eastward from the top of Mt. 
Washington. A gold watch, $57 in bills, $52 in gold, 



104 tourist's guide to the white mountains. 

and a few dollars in silver, with a pair of spectacles, a 
pocket-knife, railroad ticket, &c., were found upon his 
person. No doubt remains in the minds of the witnesses 
about this being the skeleton of Benjamin Chandler. 
Report says he was about seventy-five years of age, had 
been for about fifty years connected with the Masonic 
fraternity, and had held for a long time the highest rank 
known to the order in this country. Since his loss, the 
appraisal of his property fixes the amount at one hundred 
thousand dollars. He was a man of very active habits, 
had a great inclination to ask questions, and had at times 
been deranged. 



ROUTES AND DISTANCES 



BOSTOIV TO T^THITE IMCOXJTVT^riVS, 



From Boston to Portland 105 miles. 

" Portland to Alpine House, Gorham, N, H., via Atlantic 

and St. Lawrence Railroad . . . . . 91 " 

" Alpine House to Glen House, at base of Mt. Washington 8 " 

196 miles by Railroad, 8 miles by Stag-e . . . 204 " 

Coclieco HoTite. 

From Boston to Dover, via Boston and Maine Railroad . 68 miles. 

«' Dover to Alton Bay 28 " 

" Alton Bay to Centre Harbor, by Steamer . . .30 " 

«' Centre Harbor to Crawford House . . . . 56 " 

96 miles by Railroad, 30 by Steamer, 56 by Stage . 182 « 

Roxite via TVetrs and. Centx-e Harl>or. 

From Boston to Weirs 103 miles. 

" Weirs to Centre Harbor . . . . . . 10 " 

« Centre Harbor to Conway . . . . . 30 " 

" From Conway to Crawford House . . . . 24 " 

103 miles by Railroad, 10 by Steamer, 54 by Stage . 167 " 

From Boston to Plymouth, JST. H., by Railroad . . .124 miles. 

" Plymouth to Flume House, Franconia Notch, by Stage 24 " 

" Flume House to Profile House . . . . . 5 " 

*' Profile House to White Mountain House . . . 26 " 

" White Mountain House to Crawford House . . 5 " 

" Crawford House to Willey House . . . . 2 " 

HoTxte via "Wells River & I^ittleton, IV. H. 

From Boston to Wells River 162 miles. 

" Wells River to Littleton 20 " 

« Littleton to Crawford House 23 " 

182 miles by Railroad, 23 by Stage . . .205 " 

Ploixte via Sel>ag:o ILrake. 

From Boston to Portland 105 miles. 

" Portland to Standish 16 « 

«' Standish to Bridgton, by Steamer . . . . 28 " 

" Bridgton to Conway 21 " 

« Conway to Crawford House 24 " 

115 miles by Railroad, 51 by Stage, 28 by Steamer . 194 " 



Alpine House, 

aOKHAM, NEW HAMPSHIRE, 

AND HOUSES ON 

SUMMIT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON. 



THE subscriber has again leased this Establishment, which 
he has kept for the past twelve years. One of the stations 
of the Grand Trunk Railroad is directly in front of the Hotel, 
which is in the immediate vicinity of the finest White Mountain 
scenery, and easily accessible from all points. The best of 
horses, and carriages constructed especially for the purpose, 
will be furnished, on the shortest notice, for excursionists to the 
summit of Mount Washington, and in all directions to noted lo- 
calities or around the Mountains. 

In connection with the Alpine House, the subscriber is also 
the Proprietor of the Houses on the Summit of Mount Washing- 
ton, now so easily and comfortably reached by the new carriage 
road. Attached to these houses are stables, permitting visitors 
to tarry as long on the Mountains as they choose, and to return 
at their leisure, stopping on the summit over night or returning 
the same day. 

Believing that the Alpine House is too well known to the 
travelling public to need an extended description of its unrivalled 
situation and surroundings, the subscriber would renew his 
assurances that nothing in his power shall be omitted to give 
comfort and pleasure to all who may faA^or him with their 
patronage. 

J. E. HITCHCOCK. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 983 765 4 



